Gate valves are important components in piping systems, and they are used to regulate fluid flow in various industries. Gate valves are known for their ability to provide a tight seal and are designed to withstand high pressures and temperatures. However, like other components in a piping system, gate valves require regular maintenance to ensure they function optimally.
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Before starting any repair or maintenance work on a gate valve, it is essential to relieve the system of any pressure. This will prevent injuries, losses, and environmental damage. Once the pressure is relieved, the following maintenance procedures can be carried out:
Over time, the valve seat and disc can become rough and corroded, leading to poor sealing and fluid leakage. Valve lapping involves using a lapping machine to smooth out the valve seat and disc, thus enhancing a tight seal when the valve closes. This process is critical to the optimal functioning of the gate valve.
Lubrication is another important maintenance procedure that should be carried out regularly. Gate valve stem threads and stem nut should be lubricated to reduce friction, wear, and make it easy to open and close the valve. A grease gun can be used for lubrication.
The valve packing is responsible for preventing fluid leakage between the valve stem and bonnet. It is essential to adjust the valve packing regularly, at least once a month, or as recommended by the manufacturer, to ensure that it is not too tight or too loose.
Gate valves can become clogged with debris and other foreign materials, leading to blockages and reduced fluid pressure. It is necessary to clean the valve seat, disc, entry and exit ports regularly to prevent fluid blockage.
The bonnet-body connection is an essential part of the gate valve, and it must be secure to prevent fluid leakage. Bolts and nuts should be tightened to the torque recommended by the gate valve manufacturer.
If the gate valve disc does not stop the fluid flow effectively, it may be necessary to replace the disc. To replace the disc, it would be necessary to open the valve bonnet in order to gain access to the interior of the valve.
In addition to regular maintenance, it is essential to troubleshoot gate valves regularly to identify and fix common problems. Some common problems and their solutions include:
Leakage through the valve-pipe connection can be caused by worn-out seals/gasket or a loose connection of bolts and nuts. It is necessary to replace the seals/gasket or tighten the bolts and nuts to fix the problem.
If there is excess fluid pressure, the gate valve may fail to operate optimally. Ensure that the fluid pressure is at the level recommended by the gate valve manufacturer.
Leakage through the bonnet-body connection can be caused by loose bolts and nuts or worn-out seals/gaskets. It is necessary to tighten the bolts and nuts or replace the gaskets/seals to fix the problem.
If the valve is hard to operate, it may be due to clogged materials in the valve or on the valve stem. Disassemble the valve and remove such materials. If the valve stem is bent, it may be necessary to replace the stem. If the packing is too tight, loosen it to make the valve easier to operate.
If no fluid flows through the valve, it may be due to a blocked valve. Disassemble
A globe valve is a type of valve used to regulate fluid flow in pipelines. Proper maintenance and repair of a globe valve are essential to ensure that it operates effectively and efficiently. Regular maintenance helps to prevent downtime, reduce repair costs and extend the life of the valve.
Regular maintenance and repair of globe valves are essential to ensure that they operate effectively and efficiently. Valve grinding, lubrication, cleaning, gland packing, seals and O-rings, bolts and nuts are critical maintenance procedures that should be performed periodically. Troubleshooting techniques should be applied to identify and solve any issues with the globe valve. Proper maintenance and repair of globe valves help to prevent downtime, reduce repair costs and extend the life of the valve.
Valve grinding is a maintenance procedure that helps to achieve a dense, flat surface. It involves using a grinding machine to smoothen the seals and seats, allowing for a perfect and tight seal. This procedure should be performed regularly to maintain the globe valve's efficiency and prevent fluid leakage.
Frequent lubrication of the valve stem is essential to reduce wear and enhance smooth operation without using high torque to open or close. Lack of lubrication can cause the stem to become stiff, making it difficult to operate the valve. Proper lubrication helps to reduce friction and wear, extending the life of the valve.
The globe valve bonnet and valve body may accumulate scales or residue, which can cause blockage and hinder the valve's efficiency. It is essential to clean the valve body and bonnet periodically to prevent this. During cleaning, inspect the valve seat and disc and replace them if worn out.
The gland packing should be replaced after a certain period of use or as recommended by the manufacturer. This helps to prevent fluid leakage and maintain the valve's efficiency. The gland packing provides a seal between the valve stem and the valve body and prevents fluid from leaking out.
The seals and O-rings should be inspected and replaced after disassembling the globe valve. This helps to prevent fluid leakage and ensure that the valve operates effectively.
Worn-out bolts and nuts on the bonnet and pipe-body connections should be replaced with new ones. This helps to ensure tight connections to prevent leakage, which can cause fluid losses and environmental damage.
If there is fluid leakage through the bonnet, it may be caused by loose bolts and nuts. Tighten the bonnet bolts and nuts to the torque recommended by the manufacturer. If the bonnet gasket is worn out, replace it. Ensure the valve operates at the fluid pressure recommended by the manufacturer. If not, use a higher-rated globe valve.
If there is fluid leakage through the body-pipe connection, it may be caused by a loose connection. Tighten the bolts and nuts. If the gasket is worn out, replace it. Ensure the fluid pressure matches the value recommended by the manufacturer.
If the handwheel cannot open or close the liquid flow, it may be caused by extremely tightened packing. Loosen the packing. If the stem threads are worn out, replace the stem. If foreign materials clog the valve disk, open the valve and clean off the materials.
If the handwheel rotates but does not open or close the fluid flow, it may be caused by a worn-out disc. Replace the disc. If the seat is worn out, replace or lap the valve seat.
Pressure relief valves play a vital role in maintaining the safety and efficiency of industrial piping systems. These valves are designed to protect the system from overpressure by releasing excess pressure when it exceeds the set pressure limit. However, like any other mechanical component, pressure relief valves require regular maintenance and repair to ensure that they function optimally.
The first step in repairing and maintaining a pressure relief valve is to inspect it for corrosion. Corrosion can weaken the valve and reduce its effectiveness. If any component of the valve is found to be corroded, it should be replaced immediately.
The internal components of the valve should be cleaned regularly to remove foreign materials and moisture that can impair proper functioning. However, aggressive cleaning that may damage delicate parts of the valve should be avoided. The valve should be cleaned with a suitable cleaning agent and a soft brush.
Regular lapping of the valve seat and disc is necessary to remove scales and enhance perfect closure when the valve is stopped. Lapping should be carried out using a lapping compound and a lapping tool. The valve seat and disc should be lapped until a smooth, flat surface is obtained.
Overstayed grease can accumulate dirt and contaminate the valve. Therefore, it is important to clean off old grease and apply fresh grease to the valve. The valve should be lubricated with a suitable grease recommended by the manufacturer.
The pressure relief valve is designed to operate at a specific pressure, and any readjustment or tampering can affect its performance. Therefore, it is important to set the pressure to the level recommended by the manufacturer.
If the valve is causing fluid leakage, the seat should be replaced or lapped. Lapping can be done using a lapping tool and a lapping compound. The seat should be lapped until a smooth, flat surface is obtained.
The rain cap protects the valve against malfunction due to ice, snow, rain, insects, dirt, debris, and contamination. If the rain cap is missing or damaged, it should be replaced immediately.
The spring on the pressure relief valve can deteriorate with time if it is exposed to salty water, industrial pollutants, and chemicals. If the coating becomes chipped or cracked, the spring should be replaced to prevent malfunction and errors.
Inspect the weep holes regularly and remove paint, dirt, ice, or other foreign materials that may interfere with the proper drainage of the valve.
If the piping system cannot attain the required pressure, the valve may be wrongly calibrated. Adjust the valve pressure to the correct level.
If there is excess system pressure, check the valve for blockage and remove any blocking materials like dirt and contamination.
If fluid leakage is observed, the valve may be wrongly sized. Replace the valve with another that can withstand higher pressure. Tighten the valve disc through the handwheel and check for dirt that may interfere with disc closure. Check for worn-out or damaged seals and replace or lap them.
Safety valves are crucial in industrial operations to protect equipment and personnel from overpressure. However, like any other mechanical device, safety valves require periodic repair and maintenance to ensure optimal performance.
Calibration is a vital step in ensuring the safety valve's reliability and sensitivity. Regular calibration will verify that the valve is within the required set pressure range. Any deviation from the set pressure range can lead to incorrect readings and potential safety hazards. Calibration should be done by a certified technician using calibrated equipment.
Regular cleaning of the safety valve body is necessary to remove grease and dirt that can accumulate over time. Accumulated debris can cause the valve to malfunction, resulting in leakage or complete failure. The valve's cleaning should be done in a well-ventilated area to avoid exposure to harmful chemicals.
The lead seal prevents the heavy hammer of the safety valve from becoming loose or moved. It is essential to check the lead seal's integrity to prevent unwanted valve movement. If the lead seal is damaged or missing, it should be replaced immediately.
Lapping the valve disc and seat enhances the perfect and tight seal necessary for optimal safety valve operation. The valve's disc and seat may become worn out over time due to prolonged usage, which can lead to leakage or reduced performance. The lapping process smoothens the surfaces and enhances the valve's sealing capabilities.
The valve spring may corrode over time due to exposure to industrial chemicals, salty water, and dirt. Corrosion can reduce the spring's strength, leading to wrong pressure readings and errors when the valve is set. Regular inspection of the valve spring is necessary, and replacement is required when it becomes corroded.
A leaking safety valve is a sign of a malfunctioning valve that requires immediate attention. The valve should be repaired by replacing worn-out seals and O-rings that may be causing the leak. Inspection of the valve disc is also necessary, and it should be replaced if it is worn out.
The valve's bolting torque should be inspected regularly to ensure optimal performance. Adjustments may be necessary if the bolts are too tight or loose.
Safety valves may experience various problems, including leakage, inflexible opening/closing, and chatter. Here are some common troubleshooting techniques:
Leakage through the bushing can be resolved by tightening or replacing the bushing.
Dirt on the sealing surface can be removed by opening the valve and washing away the dirt. Damaged Sealing Surface: The seal should be replaced or repaired by lapping if the sealing surface is damaged.
Inflexible Opening/Closing: Improperly positioned adjusting rings can cause inflexible opening/closing. Adjusting the adjusting ring as per the process requirements can resolve this problem.
Moving Parts Jammed: Jammed moving parts may be caused by dirt, corrosion, impurities, or improper assembly. Inspecting the internal parts of the valve and repairing as necessary can resolve this issue.
Safety Valve Chatter: High fluid discharge capacity may cause safety valve chatter. Using the safety valve for the manufacturer's discharge capacity or using a higher-rated safety valve can resolve this issue.
Inlet Pipe Diameter Too Small: Using a larger inlet diameter or reducing the inlet pipe resistance can resolve this issue.
High Resistance on the Discharge Pipe: Lowering the discharge pipe resistance can resolve this issue.
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Check valves, also known as non-return valves, are essential components in pipelines and other fluid handling systems. They allow fluid to flow in only one direction, preventing backflow and protecting equipment from damage. However, like any other mechanical component, check valves are prone to wear and tear, which can cause them to malfunction.
The valve seat is the component that provides a tight seal between the valve body and the disc. Any defect on the seat can impair perfect valve closure, leading to fluid leakage or backflow. Therefore, it is essential to perform a grinding operation on the valve seat regularly to remove any large or small defects. Grinding will ensure that the valve closes tightly and remains leak-free.
The moving disc hinge pin is prone to friction and wear during opening and closing, which can affect the valve's effectiveness. Lubricating the hinge pin with suitable lubricants reduces friction, wear, and tear, enhancing the valve's performance. Proper lubrication also prevents corrosion, extending the valve's lifespan.
The gasket is an essential component that prevents fluid leakage from the body-bonnet connecting bolts. Prolonged use can damage the gasket, leading to leaks. Therefore, it is essential to check the gasket regularly and replace it after a particular duration of use to maintain the valve's integrity.
If the valve seat is damaged or worn out, it cannot provide a tight seal between the body and the disc, leading to leaks or backflow. Therefore, it is essential to replace or lap the valve seat to ensure that the valve functions correctly. Lapping is a process that involves using a lapping compound to smoothen the seat surface, which improves the sealing capacity.
The bolts connecting the body and bonnet must be tightened appropriately to prevent fluid leakage. Over-tightening can damage the valve gasket, bolts, nuts, and valve flanges. Therefore, it is essential to tighten the bolts to the recommended torque value, which varies depending on the valve size and manufacturer.
Sometimes, check valves malfunction, and it is essential to troubleshoot and identify the root cause of the problem. The following are some of the common issues and their solutions:
The valve may be installed in the wrong direction, causing the fluid flow to be opposite to the arrow indicated on the valve body or the manufacturer's instructions. Ensure that the valve is installed correctly.
Low Suction Pressure: The valve may require a higher force to push the disc open. Increase the fluid flow pressure to create a higher force that can open the valve disc.
Downstream Valve is Closed: The downstream valve may be closed, preventing fluid flow through the check valve. Open the downstream valve.
Reverse Fluid Flow: The valve disc may be stuck open due to foreign materials that interfere with the disc's return to the valve seat. Open the valve and remove the foreign materials.
Fluid leakage may occur due to a worn-out gasket. Replace the gasket.
Fluid leakage may also occur due to a loose connection between the valve body, bonnet, and pipe. Tighten the bolts and nuts connecting the valve body and bonnet and those connecting the body and the pipe to the recommended torque value.
Valve vibration may occur due to high fluid velocity. Use the valve for the flow velocity recommended by the check valve manufacturer to prevent vibration.
Ball valves are essential components in the oil and gas industry, water treatment plants, and other industrial applications. They are reliable and durable, but like any other mechanical device, they require regular maintenance and repair to ensure optimal performance.
Check the tightness of bolts and nuts frequently, and if loose, tighten them to the torque recommended by the manufacturer. Excess torque can damage the bolts, nuts, and valve flanges, while loose bolts can lead to fluid leakage and other issues. Proper tightening ensures that the valve remains secure and does not cause any fluid leakage or pose any danger.
Lubrication is crucial for smooth valve operation and preventing abrasion wear on the ball when it opens or closes. It is also essential for ensuring an effective seal. Lubricate the valve frequently using recommended lubricants.
Regular grinding of the valve ball and seat is necessary to ensure a tight seal when the valve closes. Grinding helps to smooth the ball and seat, preventing leakage and ensuring proper valve operation.
Inspect the valve regularly to identify worn-out or damaged components, such as the valve ball and seat, seals, and gaskets. Replace or lap the valve ball and seat when worn out or damaged. Clean the valve interior of any materials sticking on the valve body.
Hard to operate valve: Solids clogged in the valve. Open the valve bonnet and clean off the solids.
Corrosion inside the valve: Clean off corrosion scales inside the valve.
External fluid leakage: Loose connection between the valve and the pipe or between the body and the bonnet. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque recommended by the valve manufacturer. Replace worn-out gaskets.
Excess fluid pressure: Ensure the fluid pressure level is as recommended by the valve manufacturer.
Internal fluid leakage: Damaged seat. Replace or Lap the valve seat. Debris is stuck on the valve seat. Open the valve and clean off the dirt.
Valve is hard to open/close: Foreign materials are stuck in the valve. Open the valve and remove the materials.
Noisy operation: High fluid velocity. Reduce the fluid velocity. Wrong valve sizing. Replace the valve with a higher-rated valve.
Parallel slide valves are critical components of many industrial processes that require precise control of fluid flow. As with any mechanical component, regular maintenance and repair are necessary to keep the valve in good working order.
The first step in repairing a parallel slide valve is to grind the valve seats and the two discs to smoothen them, ensuring that there is no fluid flow when the valve is stopped. To accomplish this, a valve grinding machine is used to grind the valve seats and the discs. The valve grinding machine should be operated by a skilled technician who can accurately control the grinding process to ensure that the valve seats and discs are precisely ground.
Lubrication is essential to reduce wear and friction and to minimize the energy required to open and close the valve. Moving parts, such as the yoke sleeve and stem, should be lubricated to reduce wear and friction. Actuator moving parts, such as drive sleeves for the motor actuator and sliding surfaces for the hydraulic/pneumatic actuator, should also be lubricated. Proper lubrication can extend the life of the valve and reduce the frequency of repairs.
Cleaning is necessary to remove solids and contamination that may reduce fluid pressure or cause blockage of fluid flow. Internal components of the valve, such as the stem, body, bonnet, and packing area, should be cleaned to remove any solids and contamination. Cleaning can be accomplished by using a cleaning solution and a cleaning brush or by using a high-pressure water jet to remove any debris.
Tightening bolts and nuts connecting the body and bonnet and those connecting valves to the pipe is important to ensure that the valve is securely fastened. However, excess torque on the nuts and bolts should be avoided, as it will damage them. The valve actuator should also be checked to ensure that it is properly tightened. Proper tightening can prevent leaks and ensure that the valve operates correctly.
Adjusting packing and stuffing box rings is necessary to prevent fluid leakage. If fluid is leaking through the packing chamber, loose bolts may be the issue, in which case they should be tightened evenly. If there is insufficient packing, the amount of packing rings should be increased. If the packing chamber is damaged or the packing is worn out, it should be replaced with new packing. If the stem is damaged, it should be repaired or replaced as necessary.
Despite proper maintenance and repair, parallel slide valves may experience issues that require troubleshooting. If fluid is leaking through the sealing, worn-out seals may be the issue, and they should be replaced. Dirt accumulation on the sealing surface should be cleaned off, and excess fluid pressure should be reduced. If the handwheel is hard to operate, the packing may be too tight, in which case it should be adjusted. If stem threads are worn out, the stem should be replaced. If dirt accumulates between the stem and gland, it should be removed. If fluid flows when the valve is closed, worn-out disks and/or seats should be replaced or lapped.
Wedge valves are essential components in fluid transportation systems as they control the flow of liquids, gases, and slurries. However, like any other mechanical device, wedge valves require regular repair and maintenance to ensure optimal performance and prevent downtime, leakage, and safety hazards.
The gland is a mechanical device that compresses the packing or sealant around the valve stem to create a tight seal and prevent leakage. Over time, the gland may loosen or wear out, leading to fluid leakage. To maintain the gland, it is essential to adjust it regularly using a wrench or spanner. The adjustment should be done carefully to avoid overtightening, which may damage the gland or the valve stem.
The valve stem is the part of the valve that connects the handwheel or actuator to the disc, controlling the valve's opening and closing. The stem is prone to wear and tear due to friction and corrosion. To reduce wear and tear, the stem should be lubricated using a suitable lubricant, such as grease or oil. Lubrication also makes it easier to operate the valve and prevents the stem from sticking or jamming.
The internal parts of a wedge valve, such as seals, O-rings, bonnet, and body, are susceptible to dirt, corrosion, and impurities. These contaminants can cause blockage, leakage, or malfunction of the valve. To prevent these issues, it is essential to clean the internal parts of the valve regularly using a suitable cleaning agent and a soft cloth. The valve seat and disc should also be checked and replaced if they are worn out.
Gaskets are essential components that prevent fluid leakage between the valve body and bonnet or between the valve body and flanges. Gaskets may wear out or become damaged over time, leading to leaks or safety hazards. It is crucial to inspect the gaskets regularly and replace them if they are worn out or damaged. The bolts and nuts should also be checked and tightened to ensure proper sealing and prevent leakage.
Wedge valves may experience various issues, such as internal or external leakage, hard handwheel rotation, or failure to open or close the fluid flow. To troubleshoot these issues, the following steps should be taken:
Internal Leakage: If the valve is leaking internally, the seat or seals/O-rings may be worn out, and they need to be replaced or lapped.
External Leakage: If the valve is leaking externally, check for loose bolts and nuts or a worn-out gasket. Tighten the bolts and nuts or replace the gasket if necessary.
Hard Handwheel Rotation: If the handwheel is hard to rotate, check for dirt on the stem or a damaged stem. Clean the stem or replace it if necessary.
Failure to Open or Close: If the valve fails to open or close the fluid flow, check for a damaged stem or a worn-out or damaged disc. Replace the stem or disc if necessary.
Diaphragm valves are widely used in various industries for their simple design, reliability, and cost-effectiveness. These valves have a flexible diaphragm that moves up and down to control the flow of fluid through the valve. However, like any other mechanical device, diaphragm valves require regular maintenance and repair to function optimally.
The valve diaphragm and weir should be perfectly smooth to ensure perfect closure. If there are any scratches, pits, or irregularities on the diaphragm or weir, it can lead to leakage and failure of the valve. To smoothen out the valve diaphragm and weir, perform grinding operation using a lapping/grinding machine. This will help in achieving a perfect surface finish and ensure optimal performance of the valve.
Regular cleaning of the diaphragm is essential to prevent the buildup of dirt and contaminants that can cause damage to the diaphragm. Use a soft cloth or brush and mild detergent solution to clean the diaphragm. Avoid using abrasive cleaners or brushes as they can cause scratches and damage to the diaphragm.
The diaphragm and linings of the valve should be inspected regularly for any signs of damage or wear. If there are any cracks, tears, or other damages to the diaphragm or linings, they should be replaced immediately. Failure to replace damaged diaphragms and linings can lead to valve failure and fluid leakage.
The body, seat, and bolts of the valve should be checked regularly for tightness. Loose bolts can cause fluid leakage, which can be detrimental to the operation of the valve. If any bolts are found to be loose, they should be tightened to prevent fluid leakage.
The body-bonnet bolts of the valve should also be checked regularly for tightness. Loose body-bonnet bolts can cause fluid leakage and affect the performance of the valve. Ensure that the body-bonnet bolts are tightly connected to prevent fluid leakage.
Lubrication of the valve stem is essential to reduce the rate of wear and operating torque. Use a suitable lubricant to lubricate the valve stem. Over-lubrication should be avoided, as it can attract dirt and contaminants and cause damage to the valve.
If there is no fluid flow through the diaphragm valve, it could be due to the valve being closed or the pipe or strainer being clogged. Check the filter or pipe for blockage and open the valve to allow fluid flow.
If there is leakage between the valve and the pipe, it could be due to loose bolts or a worn-out gasket or lining. Tighten the bolts evenly and replace the gasket or lining to prevent fluid leakage. Ensure that the valve and pipe are properly centered to prevent leakage.
If the valve is difficult to operate, it could be due to dirt on the stem, worn-out stem threads, foreign materials trapped between the diaphragm and the body, or high fluid pressure. Clean off the dirt, replace the stem if necessary, remove foreign materials, and reduce fluid pressure or use a higher-rated diaphragm valve to resolve the issue.
i am including a suggestion for marking timing marks that on overhead cam engines will need to reassembled the same way to the correct marks
i will mention here any push rod engine is not effected timing mark wise but the distributor will need to be marked on those (most likely) as you sometimes have to remove it to remove head/s
of course newer engines don't have distributors they have coil packs ect .
i have used paint of various types but i always clean a small spot near my intended marks
with something like carb spray you can most likely use acetone or turpentine , maybe finger nail polish remover , this will insure the paint stays on the timing gear or belt and the area near the mark
(block / casting gear or cog)
keep most of your paint marks to the visible side so you wont turn the belt backwards by mistake
IN general take time to find out what the marks are supposed to align with by looking in a manual for you engine or ask auto zone . maybe visit a library get a copy made or draw a good picture as if you are working on a v6 0r v8 with a lot of cams and balance rs you will really have to
know where each one is marked
On small 4 cylinder motors with no in block balance rs or maybe a single cam you can probably get by with just painting the marks onto the chain link and gear or on to the belt and its cog for belt
type drives(cam).
I will say in the absence of timing alignment marks: it is possible to make your own with paint .
TRY TO FIND THE MARKS (timing)
A lot of the time i will begin my work (valve job) by turning motor to top dead center on the number 1 piston this usually brings the timing marks into there normal position were you can verify exactly where each of the 3 or 4 marks are aligned(on gears). If you find the cam or cams aligned but cant see the crank mark just wash a spot on the chain and sprocket with solvent ( mentioned earlier)
A FEW MOTORS DO NOT ALIGN AT TOP DEAD CENTER SO BEWARE
Paint a spot of paint across 1 tooth and onto the mating chain use the tooth and mating link as to be careful to use a small enough paint spot as to not be confuse to which link it is on ok?
USE FAST DRYING PAINT OR MAYBE WHITE NAIL POLISH.
THIS MARK DETERMINING OR MARK PAINTING SHOULD BE DONE AFTER ANY COMPRESSION TESTING AS THE MOTOR WILL NOT BE MOVED UNTIL YOU HAVE TO RE-INSTALL
THE HEAD/S TO THE BLOCK ( DO NOT MOVE THE CRANK WHILE OR DURING HEAD REMOVAL ****
when you are ready to re instal the heads you can move the marks just a little to get them to the same spot use you hand and a wrench remember to put the cam back into the same position before
putting or bolting the cam onto the head or when the cam is already bolted to the head ( overhead cam engines)
**** if your motor is an interference motor don't turn the motor over keep crank and cams the same spot when separated
Have 2 cams on a engine or 4 cams? mark them put a paint spot on the front and rear ones or a tag wired with ef if - er=ir ect
dont mix them up . ( ie front exhaust cam front intake cam, or if you have a 2 head motor the back 2 cams)
After you have you marks then take the bolts holding the head on most likely you will need to
remove any overhead cams OK LOOK AT THE CAM CAPS THAT ARE BOLTING THE CAMS ON SEE THE NUMBERS AND ARROWS ON THE TOP OF THE CAP ? HUH? No ?
WELL YOU WILL HAVE TO MARK EACH CAP AND MAKE AN ARROW OR NUMBER
IF YOU MIX THESE UP YOU WILL RUIN YOU MOTOR OR HEAD
if you are uncertain about a caps position (numbers?)try to match the scratch marks seen on the lower cam
journal they are like finger prints
there may me a set of numbers and a letter like E on one cam (CAP) and a similar number and letter N
if the numbers and letters are invisible make your own letters and numbers do so like this
take a screwdriver or ice pic number the cam holders (boss) starting at one end say 1 through 5 then additionally speaking of twin cam heads put an e or x for the exhaust cam ones? only beside the exhaust cam caps (dual cam requires more marks)
More then 1 cam ? do something similar (last paragraph) for the rear head but keep the parts away from the 1st heads cam/s (store it so you don't mix em)
Cam caps i lay the caps in the valve cover after checking my cap numbers keep them in order to replace the same spot on the cam journals
Take any necessary intake manifold bolts off the head and remove to one side take any exhaust manifold bolts off and remove exhaust manifold to one side
take any brackets off the manifold that bind you from removing the head and connected parts .
IF YOU TAKE A CAM SPROCKET OR GEAR OFF TO GET IT LOOSE FROM THE CHAIN THEN
MARK IT AND THEN PUT IT BACK ON(after) SO YOU DON'T MIX THEM UP YOU MAY USE PAINT TO MARK THEM LIKE CAM 1 OR CAM 2 OR 3 OR 4 WHATEVER
YOU MAY HOLD THE CAM ON A SPOT THAT ISN'T MACHINED TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING WHILE Loosening OF TIGHTENING GEARS OR COG BOLTS DO NOT LET THE CAM TURN WHEN YOU ARE LOOSENING ANY GEAR OR COG END BOLTS IT CAN RUIN THE VALVES if IT TURNS SO BE WARNED DON'T LET THE CAM TURN WHEN DISASSEMBLING GEAR OR PARTS
( a pneumatic impact wrench is helpful removing big bolts if they are tight but should not be used for small bolts like 1/2 0r 13 mm just on 17 mm or bigger ) AND LOOSEN THE CAM GEAR RETAINING BOLT /S BEFORE TAKING ANY CAP BOLTS LOOSE
LAY YOUR HEAD BOLTS IN THE VALVE COVER OR A CAN PUT SMALL BOLTS IN A DIFFERENT CUP OR PAN DON'T DROP THEM INTO THE AREA BETWEEN THE CHAIN AND THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN YOU DO NOT WANT THEN IN YOUR MOTOR"! IF YOU DO DROP ONE IN CALL AND ASK A MACHINIST ABOUT WHAT HAPPENED use a large pair of vise grips to lock the cam and hold it or if you can try to get the cam and gear off with out removing i have used a pipe wrench to hold a cam
but it can slip and remember you cant let the cam turn (on interference engines ) if your can gear has large holes you can sometimes stick a metal bar through the hole to lock it just so it do sent turn ( when loosening cog bolt)
HINTS"
if you are uncertain about a caps position try to math the scratch marks seen on the lower cam
journal they are like2 halves and sometimes are matchable by wear scratches pa terns
if you have damage to a cap or journal you may be able to smooth it a little(slightly) with 320 grit sandpaper stretched around a socket of a very close size (clean all dust after).
CAM CAM WONT STAY PUT ON MARK BECAUSE SPRINGS
If you find the cam when set to correct mark is jumping to a different spot, it will be necessary
to hold or lock it while your finishing positioning any remaining gears / chain ect use a pair
of vise grips clamped to the cam at some spot UN-machined.
CAMS WITH ALIGNMENT HOLES
Some motors like
the GM 2.4 use holes in the cam gears that you stick a bolt or drill bit into to while aligning
beware of the gm 2.4 variable cam gear/s as there are 2 gears stacked and you must not
allow the 2 gears to slip to another tooth or it will not work (seriously)
the 2.4 is a difficult motor to lean their are hidden bolts behind chain tension er ect
On iron blocks and or heads i use permatex Indian head shellac to seal rust spots
even though it may not be altogether necessary it can stop rust from forming on the
metal that will cause pitting and lead to gasket failure (use your own judgement).
I f you are working on the ford SOHC V-8 the Gas TYPE chain Tension-er is behind
the timing cover it will be very difficult to squeeze if you remove the gear so if you
have a piece of oak wood you may be able to make a wedge and pound it
against the chain to scotch the tensiner from springing out when you take the top
cam gear off. If it does come out you will have a hard time to get your gear back on.
cam loose .
Pressurized Gas Tensioner
Be aware of what type of Tensioner you have on your engine if it has a gas pressure
type Tensioner you will need to in most cases remove it because you will not be able
to get you chain/s or belts onto the cams as it will expand and make it to tight a fit
If you do take the gas pressurized Tensioner off to reuse it you will need to slowly
re compress it back into the cylinder housing so you can get it in far enough to put
a pin into the retainer hole on the side near the rubber boot to be removed like
a grenade pin only after all the gears and chains / belts are in place and screwed on.
It takes a lot of force to push the Gas pressure Tensioner in : you will have to
put it into a large shop vise and the slowly over say 4 or 5 minits screw the vise
tight until the pin hole is aligned to much weight and you will ruin the end of the
tensioner i have put them under the car and used a jack to slowly compress them
remember to give them time it will need to move slowly over say 4 or 5 minits .
when replacing a rocker arm assembly on the Honda civic 4 cylinder engine, be careful when the
assembly starts to tighten watch to see if the rocker arms are all contacting there
respective valve stems if the high lobe end valve gets sideways it will bend the exhaust valve
sideways BEWARE just push it to the top of the stem so it don't bind as you get it close to pulling down
even as some lobes are high and push on the assembly as your tightening it to the head cam inplace
understand ?
A Nissan 4 or v-6 cylinder uses a hydraulic tensioner if your chain is makeing a zizing
noise when engine heats up it could mean the main bearings are wore out ! a chain job
will not help this you have bigger troubles so check oil pressure" with motor hot first .
Got an older front wheel gm motor with a bad cam? don't want too take the motor out
because of side fender frame? then jack the motor up remove intake and push rods
and all lifters (use vise grips to pull lifters) timing cover and gear .Then slide the cam
sideways till it hits the metal above the box frame (jack the motor a little ) the use
a drill to drill a series of holes in a semi circle slightly larger then the cam from
and through the tin behind the wheel well ,bend the metal back (wheel removed)
and pull the cam out through the flap , it will save a lot
of work and sometimes an engine change. Install new cam and lifters".
Have a leaky crank seal up in side an area where you cannot prize it out with a
screwdriver ? it may be necessary to drill a small hole in the seal shell through
the thin tin shell ( caution don't over drill into the main bearing )
and put a fairly long enough sheet metal screw into the hole so
you can pull on the screw ( seal attached)to get the old leaky seal out
These few cars with a sunken seal will be hard to align the new seal to push it in
i have at these times cut a small section of plastic from the side a plastic pop
bottle and wrapped it around the crankshaft nose(temporarily) so that the rubber the new lip on the new seal can slide over the plastic sleeve like a shoe horn and the new
seal doesn't flip under when you push the seal into the recessed area
always put grease or oil onto a new seal.
LEAKING OIL SEALS AND TIMING BELTS
If the cam seals or crankshaft seals are leaking and your motor has a belt /s
you will need to replace any and all seals on the effected cam or crankshaft
other wise if you allow the oil to continue to leak onto your timing belt
it will sometimes ( depending on the belt) cause the belt to break soon possibly
in as little as 2 months and potentially within a year it could break
best to always use a new belt but if your not then wash the oil of the belt
with degrease r or then use tide soap, or oven cleaner ect.
Time saver when taking certain heads off that "head bolts" can be removed
without first removing cam? simply take bolts out: when ready lift end of head
farest from gear/cog that will allow you to slip the belt off the gear/ cog & remove
head and cam in one chunk, ! leave adjustment alone Unless its loose going
back on? if you mill the head it may become loose so then adjust the belt if
it has a manual belt idler ( see above for info of pressurized gas tension er !)ok
NEVER FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE CAM GEAR BOLT OR BOLTS BEFORE FINISHING THE JOB OK?
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