Frequently asked questions FAQs. Below you will find answers to common questions we hear on a regular basis about water softeners and water filtration systems. Keep in mind we custom make everything we sell with only the finest American Made components. It is made for exactly the kind of water you have. Check out these water filter FAQs below.
The most common three questions we hear are as follows:
I have a private well that has some problems. How do I fix it?
ANSWER: In order to help you properly, please read items #7, #16 and #17 below on this page. Don't worry, most problem wells are easy and inexpensive to fix.
I am on a city water system and have really hard water. How do I fix it?
ANSWER: You can find information on how to size a water softener and how much they cost on this page: Water Softener prices and sizing
I just want to purify my drinking water ONLY. What do I do?
ANSWER: If all you want to do is have pure drinking water in your kitchen to remove bad tastes, chemicals and smells. Just buy the very first filter listed on the following page. It removes just about everything you can imagine: Purified Drinking Water
Here are a number of other common questions we are asked:
1. How do I reach Tech Support?
2. Do I have to use a carbon tank with well water chlorination systems?
3. I tested our well water and found it to have.......(sulfur smell)
4. Do I need to install the equipment myself?
5. I had a company come out and test my water....
6. If I get a full home water filtration system and it removes lead, why do I need a sink system?
7. How do I determine my FLOW RATE?
8. What is the difference between a "Deluxe" model a "Standard" model, and the "Premium" models?
9. UV LIGHT Sterilization. How do I know when it is correct to use one?
10. How simple is a reverse osmosis unit to install?
11. I just installed a full house backwashing carbon......
12. How does a person sign up to become one of your installers in a given town or city?
13. Sulfur: Should I remove the anode in my hot water heater?
14. How does a water softener work?
15. Do you have salt free water softeners?
16. How do I get my water tested? Is there anyone who does their water testing for free?
17. How do I do the Iron Bacteria and Organics inspections?
18. Where do you install the chemical feeder pumps that inject chlorine for sulfur smells or soda ash to raise your pH?
19. We noticed you changed your Pyrolox Iron Filters to Terminox&#;. Why is that?
20. Do magnetic water softeners work?
21. Who makes your equipment?
22. Can I drink the water from my softener?
23. What if i need to install my unit outside?
24. Are your products made in America?
25. Do you sell just the tank only to replace water softener tanks, and replace water filter tanks?
26. Do you sell Manganese Oxide or Manganese Dioxide?
(1) Q: How do I reach Tech Support?
A: This is the most important question on our FAQs page. Call the tech support hotline number at 412-828-. This is usually answered 24 hours per day, seven days per week. If you are a current customer with a support issue, just tell them you need customer assistance and they can generally get you in touch with an advisor at. You can go to this page for more information: Contact US.
(2) Q: Do I have to use a carbon tank with well water chlorination systems?
A: This is a very important FAQs question. The simple answer is No. Our Terminox&#; iron, sulfur and manganese filter also removes chlorine without the replacement needs of carbon. We only use carbon in extreme cases. Generally where you do not have enough flow rate to use the superior Terminox&#; filter. So you can determine how much is coming through into your home.
Sometimes if you are chlorinating heavily for harmful bacteria, you may need a little more chlorine removal capability. But normally a Terminox&#; works great. And there is no costly carbon replacement costs every few years. Chlorine readings of 0.5 to 1.0 PPM (lowest acceptable on a swimming pool tester) or slightly higher is fine fo household use. That is a very common amount with city water.
However levels in excess of 2.5-3.0 PPM tell you that a reduction in chlorine is necessary. It's very common to find 1.0-3.0 PPM of chlorine in city water municipal water supplies. If you are using O.T.O. (most common swimming pool test chemical), orange readings are TOO HIGH. The yellow cap (or lid) on the bottle of OTO is a good rule of thumb as a maximum.
Also, you can remove excessive levels of chlorine in your drinking water with a carbon filter at the kitchen sink or a 5 stage reverse osmosis system. Feel free to call one of our techs to help you evaluate your individual situation. The call is free and they are not allowed to ask you to buy anything, EVER. Remember for Terminox&#; sizing you need to answer #7, #16 and #17 on this water filter FAQs page.
(3) Q: I tested our well water and found it to have a sulfur smell
Subject: Sulfur smell
From Norman: I tested our well water and found it has almost no iron, is soft. And has ph of 8.5. Would your system that feeds chlorine into the household water system as the water is delivered, suffice to eliminate the strong sulfur smell? Also, would an under sink filter work to eliminate the chlorine taste?
Yes is the answer to both questions Norman. The chlorine is neutralized by the sulfur gas so there is no "measurable" chlorine at the kitchen sink. The gas is neutralized by the chlorine so you don't smell that. Sulfur bacteria, which causes the gas by eating the sulfates. Is killed so that no more gas is created in your water lines. The sulfates can be removed with a Reverse Osmosis for drinking if you want to drink the water.
If your water is soft because of a water softener, a Reverse Osmosis unit is usually recommended for drinking water anyway. The Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System should also remove residual chlorine, if any, from the water. Of course, a simple carbon drinking water filter would remove residual chlorine as well. When you are using the chlorine to remove sulfur with a chemical feeder. All you are trying to do is get rid of that awful smell. It does not actually clean the water. If you have iron or manganese in your water as well, this is not the correct method normally.
(4) Q: Do I need to install the equipment myself?
A: Our equipment is VERY DIY friendly. You can install the equipment yourself if you are handy at all. Or you can hire someone if you do not feel comfortable doing so. We can even suggest a licensed plumber in your area. It really depends on the equipment and how handy you are. It's so easy to install. And so inexpensive that most people do it themselves. Or have a handy friend help them. And our friendly staff is here to answer any questions you may have along the way.
Or you can have a licensed plumber do it. And still save a bundle over what local water treatment companies cost. All equipment comes with an Easy Install instruction website for all your install questions. And most local water treatment dealers do not use licensed plumbers anyway! They hire people off the street. If necessary, let our representatives help you find someone in your area to help with installation. Just give us a call:
1-800-684-.
(5) Q: I had a company come out and test my water.
They said I need to spend over $ for water equipment to clean up my city water. Does your equipment do the same thing? They say if I don't buy now. I won't get as good a deal later. And I will lose money. I feel really pressured to buy.
Link to UVDF
A: (also see: Compare Brands) Yes, our equipment can provide the same quality of water. And usually a much BETTER quality of water. And we do it at a fraction of the cost! Our FULL HOUSE WATER FILTRATION SYSTEMS sell for hundreds, not thousands! Most water treatment equipment is similar. Only the high pressure sales pitches vary. When they say you must "buy tonight or lose a great deal". Warning sirens should go off in your brain.
It is a common sales tactic to pressure you. Keep in mind that FEDERAL Law says you have three WORKING days to change your mind on products sold to you while someone visited your home. Some state laws give you 4 days to cancel. And it is NO QUESTIONS ASKED. You don't need a reason to cancel. Even if they have already installed it. Just tell them to "take it out, and give you a refund". It is the law. And they are REQUIRED to disclose this to you. If they don't have you sign that they told you about it, you can file a complaint with your local State Attorney General (it is free).
And remember "NEVER BUY ON THE FIRST NIGHT FOR ANY REASON"! What would your mother tell you? Think about it. Sleep on it. And compare. And NEVER let anyone PRESSURE you out of your hard earned cash. Some companies entice you with soap products designed to save you thousands, in order to get you to buy on the first visit. But everyone goes back to their favorite products after the sales pitch wears off.
In most cases you can get those same soaps, from the same companies they use, for under $100 (even though those slick willy companies tell you they are worth THOUSANDS of dollars).
(6) Q:If I get a full home water filtration system. And it removes lead. Why do I need a sink system?
A: So you clean it again after it runs through your pipes. Especially if your home was built BEFORE . Lead solder was not outlawed until .
Also, sink filters like reverse osmosis can take out substances that a water softener can't. Reverse osmosis sink filters remove the sodium that water softeners leave behind. It also removes chlorine, chemicals, heavy metals, pesticides, fertilizers, THMs, dissolved solids, lead, arsenic and much more.
(7) Q: How do I determine my FLOW RATE?
This is the single most important factor in determining what you need to do to get the right filter for a private well.
A: To determine your flow rate please follow these simple steps.
Open the NEAREST faucet or tap AFTER the pressure tank (But NOT the one ON the pressure tank). And let the water run until the well pump turns on. Immediately turn off the tap and time how many seconds the well pump runs from the time it came on until it shuts off. Then write down the number of seconds the pump ran.
Now get a container you can measure water in, such as an empty gallon milk container. Open the tap or faucet and fill the container. Then close the tap and dump the water down the drain. Fill the container again, and then pour it out again. Continue doing this and counting each gallon until the pump starts again.
Once the pump starts, shut off the tap and stop drawing water. Write down the number of gallons you counted until the pump started. If there are any partial gallons left over count those as well. Such as a total of 1.5 gallons, or 4.25 gallons. You now have the information to calculate the well pump flow rate. Just give one of our techs a call and tell him how many seconds you calculated on the first step. Then tell him how many gallons you were able to draw after that. And that is it.
He will then be able to tell you exactly what the flow rate is and which size filter you need. This information is essential to properly size any backwashing filter (such as iron filters and water softeners) or other flow rate dependent items such as Ultra Violet (UV) systems. You should always know your flow rate on ANY private well.
For example: The well pump ran for 30 seconds. And then you were able to draw 5.5 gallons before the pump started again. That means you have 11 GPM flow rate.
*DO NOT use a water hose when checking flow rates. If necessary have someone listen for the pump to turn on while you draw water.
*If you can't hear the pump turn on and off, follow these instructions. When you have a pressure tank. Some where near it there will be a small box with some wires connected into it. This is called the pressure switch. Right when the well pump comes on it will make a distinctive "Click". When the well pump goes off it will make another distinctive click. In this case you may need two people. One to draw water and the other to listen for the clicks.
Most residential wells have conventional pumps and pressure tanks. Every now and then we will talk to someone who has a different type. These people usually know who they are because of the special nature of these pumps. If you have a variable speed pump or a constant pressure pump, please call in and ask for a level #4 tech to help you.
(8) Q: What is the difference between a "Deluxe" model and a "Standard" model?
A: The Deluxe models handle higher flow rates.
Our standard models are certainly high quality water softeners that can handle strong flow rates. The average home wit 1 or 2 bathrooms averages between 8 GPM to 12 GPM maximum flow. And that would be if everyone was using the water at the same time. A standard water softener from WFOA&#; will handle that all day long. Most standard units from other companies max out around 10 GPM. Once you get up to 13 GPM to 15 GPM, you should step up to our Deluxe (Hi Flow) water softeners. Especially if you have 3 or more bathrooms. Our Deluxe units can handle well over 20 GPM.
We also have Premium Models. For example: The Premium Dual Purpose unit softens as well as conditions the water by removing chlorine and other contaminants. It has a separate tank built into it to add Activated Carbon or some other mineral. So that you can backwash both at the same time and save water. You never want to "mix" carbon and softener resin in the same tank like some companies do (there is no way to get the carbon back out to replace it). You can also put other filtration media in the extra tank instead of activated carbon for other needs.
And "thank you" Walter Schaefer in California for asking us to include this information here. And for your excellent idea that California residents should consider putting their outdoor water softener and filter tanks in the ground. To guard against earthquake damage. Great Idea!
How do I know when it is correct to use one?
A: UV lights are normally used to kill harmful bacteria, such as E. coli and coliform bacteria. You cannot use ANY type of UV light when you have measurable amounts of iron, manganese, very hard water, or a number of the other situations. You also cannot use a UV light properly when placed after any back washing filter or water softener. Be very wary of anyone who would tell you that you can.
There are many companies who sell UV lights on everything they sell. It is quite simply a money grab. 90% of all UV Lights we see in private homes are misapplications, and most are useless. We sell them as well. But only when we KNOW that they are correctly used. It is not something to make a mistake about. For more information, please go to this page:
Note: If you are considering a UV light for disinfection, you should be sure to read the entire page at the link above. Especially the information listed at the bottom of the page which informs you of what is correct and what is not. Remember that it can be dangerous to misapply a UV light on water supplies where harmful bacteria may be present. This is something that you simply must do correctly.
(10) Q: How simple is an R.O. unit to install?
I am especially interested in how to tap into the water supply.
Is it like a refrigerator tap etc?
It is fairly simple. You have a small attachment that you place on the cold water pipe under the sink. Then "twist" a little butterfly type nut (called a saddle valve) all the way down to pierce the pipe. And then unscrew it back out to receive water to the R.O. You also need a small hole in the sink for the additional faucet. It will be the size of the sprayer hole or a bit less, you can even use the sprayer hole. If you don't normally use the sprayer. Your local hardware store sells a "drill bit" for your household power drill for about $12-$15 that will easily drill the hole for you.
Then there is a little thing called a drain saddle that you attach to the drain under the sink to carry the waste water away... that's about it. Average install time is approx. 30 minutes, 20 if you know what you are doing, 45-60 minutes if you're a bit on the slow side.
We also want you to realize that an installation helper (or tech), will be there to help on the if you need it. We will even pay for the call...
If you want to run the water to the fridge (which is usually the next question), just put a "T" in the product water line (the one that brings clean water up to the faucet) and run it to the back of the fridge. Be sure NOT to use a copper line unless absolutely necessary so the you don't get a copper taste after the water has sat in the water line all night... And a "3/8" water line seems to be best. "1/4" water lines sometimes are too small for certain ice makers and water dispensers.
(11) Q: I just installed a full house backwashing carbon tank and I noticed that the installer had some extra carbon left over. Is that normal?
A: Yes, we sometimes send you more media than you need no matter what type of tank it is. Just be careful that you don't over fill the tank (if you are doing it yourself). Most units require 12-15 inches of "free space" or "air space" in the top of the tank when you assemble it. We match the media to the tank, not the tank to how much media is there. Besides you can keep any extra for the future. It may save you a little money down the road. We think our customers enjoy getting a little extra as opposed to not enough.
(12) Q: How does a person sign up to become one of your installers in a given town or city?
A: If you are an experienced water treatment equipment installer and understand that customer satisfaction is our number one goal, we would be delighted to speak with you and possibly put you on our list of installers. Simply click on the Plumber Handyman link on the home page and provide us with your name, address, and address. A representative will contact you promptly. Or you may call us at the toll free number below.
(13) Q: Sulfur: Should I remove the anode in my hot water heater?
A: Removing the anode rod from your hot water heater is virtually never a good idea. They are there for a reason. And that is to protect your hot water heater. Removing it will not only void the warranty of your hot water heater but will almost certainly shorten the life of the tank by many years. Unfortunately many in home service technicians have found this to be a quick fix for a customer who is still getting odor.
This is only a band-aid approach and the odor returns in a short time. If the water has an odor on the hot water side only then you have a manganese issue and that water needs to be treated and the manganese removed, not the anode rod.
(14) Q: How does a water softener work?
A: A water softener works by replacing the hardness in your water with either sodium or potassium. There are two types of softeners: Demand and Timer models. A demand model recycles depending on how much water you use. A timer model recycles at a specified time. For more water softener information feel free to give us a call.
(15) Q: Do you have salt free water softeners?
A: All of our water softeners can be used as either a salt using water softener or a potassium water softener. Some people say that potassium is a salt free system even though potassium is actually a salt as well. It is really up to you choose the right water softener for your family. If you are going to install a water softener we recommend you start at our water softener home page: Water Softeners-Conditioners.
(16) Q: How do I get my water tested? Is there anyone who does their water testing for free?
Water treatment plants are not always effective at removing harmful substances from your water supply. To ensure the protection of you, your family, and your children, it is recommended that you get a Reverse Osmosis System to reduce more contaminants in your drinking water. However, if you cannot afford a Reverse Osmosis System, look into Under Sink Water Filters to improve drinking water safety. Also, Whole House Water Filters filter the water coming into your house which can increase the life of your appliances having cleaner water.
The filters you need will depend on the contaminants in your water and the level of sediment in your water. The following three stage process is the basic water filtration needed.
Stage 1: Whole House Sediment Filtration
The water should first go through a sediment water filter to reduce sand, dirt, rust, and other sediment. You want to have the water go through a sediment filter first so it does not clog up the carbon filter, which is more expensive. The sediment filter will prolong and protect the carbon filter. You will need a whole house housing to hold the sediment filter. Depending on your desired flow rate and desired length between filter changes, you will probably want either the 10 inch big blue system or the 20 inch big blue system. The 20 inch big blue filter will last longer and allow for greater flow rates because the water filter is larger.
After you have the whole house housing, you will then fill the housing with the sediment water filter that meets your needs. One of the most popular sediment filters is the DGD- or the DGD--20 depending on the size housing you select. This filter has two different layers of micron filtration. It filters down to 5 microns, but does not clog as quickly because the outer layer filters larger particles down to 50 microns. There are many more sediment filter options available on the 10" Big Blue Water Filter page and the 20" Big Blue Water Filter page.
If there is a lot of sediment in your water, you may want to consider two whole house systems to reduce sediment before the carbon filter. For example, the first sediment filter could be a 20 micron filter such as the R30-20BB. A second sediment filter such as the DGD--20 could be used to reduce sediment down to 5 microns.
Stage 2: Whole House Taste and Odor Filtration
The water should next go through a carbon filter to improve the taste and odor of your water. You will need one of the housings mentioned above for this water filter. You should fill the housing with an appropriate taste and odor filter such as the popular RFC-BB or RFC-20BB depending on the size housing you select. There are many more carbon filter options available on the 10" Big Blue Water Filter page and the 20" Big Blue Water Filter page.
Stage 3: Drinking Water Filtration
The first two stages filtered water coming into your whole house. Now, you should reduce more contaminants in your drinking water directly filtering the water that you drink. There are several reverse osmosis systems with varying price and performance levels. There are also under sink water filter systems available that do not reduce as many contaminants as reverse osmosis systems but they are more affordable.
As long as your filters are stored away from chemicals and at a temperature above freezing, there is no shelf life. It is best to keep them in the original packaging and away from extreme or greatly fluctuating temperatures.
Membranes for reverse osmosis systems can have a shelf life.
Dry Membranes can have a shelf life. Check the membrane details to find the shelf life of the membrane. Store the membrane in the original sealed bag, and preferably in the refrigerator.
Wet Membranes have a shelf life of approximately 2 - 8 months if stored in the original sealed bag, and in the refrigerator.
The smaller the micron rating, the smaller the size particle the water filter cartridge will remove. For comparison purposes, the human hair has a diameter of approximately 70 microns, and particles smaller than 40 microns are not visible to the human eye. In other words, the more sediment you want to remove from your water, the smaller the micron rating should be for your filter.
A point of use water filter is a filter that is attached to the plumbing that's only used for a specific use. For example, an under sink filter is a point of use filter for the use of water coming out of the sink faucet. A faucet mount filter is a point of use filter for the use of water coming out of the faucet. A whole house water filter system is a point of entry filter that filters all water that enters into a building.
These terms mean the same and are used interchangeably.
Once you know what type of filter you need, you must also figure out the size of the filter you need.
First, determine the application of the filter. For example, you may be using the filter for drinking water that will not require more than a 2 gpm (gallons per minute) flow rate. On the other hand, you may need a flow rate of over 20 gpm if you are using the filter as a whole house filter.
Next, determine the preferred pressure drop for your application. Although it varies for each application, it is generally advised that consumers keep the pressure drop on a new cartridge below 2 or 3 psi (pounds per square inch). This is sometimes referred to as the clean pressure drop.
Finally, you need to select the filter size that allows for your desired flow rate while maintaining the necessary clean pressure drop.
When in doubt, get a bigger water filter cartridge. If you get a filter that is too small, it will break down too quickly and will not be effective. Longer filters last longer than shorter filters. 20 inch water filters should be able to run at twice the flow rate for the same pressure drop as a 10 inch water filter with the same filtration technology.
If you need help determining the water filter size you need, you may want to speak with a plumber. Plumbers usually charge more for water filters, but they can provide valuable advice. They can be very helpful in the installation of our water filters. When you determine your water filter size, we will be glad to assist you with our great service and low prices.
Are you interested in learning more about wholesale uvc water purification faucet? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!