Felt is a type of of textile that is not woven but produced by matting, condensing and pressing fibers together. It can be made of natural or synthetic fibers. Feltmaking is older than spinning and weaving and many cultures have legends about how of feltmaking was invented. Sumerians claim that the secret of feltmaking was discovered by Urnamman of Lagash, a traveler and a Sumerian a legendary warrior hero. Christians have legends that felt is an invention of Saint Clement or Saint Christopher. They both were fleeing from prosecution and they packed their sandals with wool to prevent blisters and make shoes more comfortable but at the end of their journey the wool turned into felt socks from the movement and sweat. National Museum in Copenhagen has preserved caps made of solid felt from the early Bronze Age. They were found in the pre-historic burial mounds of Jutland and North Slesvig and date back some years. Classical Greek authors mention the use of felt. Specialized workshops for making felt hats and felt gloves were discovered in Pompeii. Nomadic peoples still practice feltmaking and make rugs, tents and clothing out of felt for everyday use and for selling to tourists.
There are many different techniques of felting - wet, needle, nuno, carroting... Wet felting is method interlocking and compacting of wool fibers which are first drenched in soap water and then rubbed until fabric has the same thickness. Individual wool fibers are covered with small scales. When water and pressure from rubbing are applied the scales open up and the fibers tangle together. When the felt dries fibers stay tangled.
Needle felting is the technique of making felt without the water. Felt is made by interlocking wool fibers by stabbing then with a barbed needle. The barbs of the needle catch the scales on the fiber and cause them to tangle and bind together. This is a popular arts craft used by hobbyist and artists.
Nuno felting is a technique developed by Polly Stirling, a fiber artist from Australia. The technique bonds loose fibers of wool into a sheer fabric such as silk gauze, nylon or muslin, which creates a lightweight felt. Name of the technique comes from Japanese word "nuno" which means cloth. With this kind of feltmaking wool is only one kind of ber that can be used.
Felt has many uses, from clothing and tents to automotive industry, musical instruments and home construction. When used in the automotive industry it damps the vibrations between interior panels and stops dirt from entering into some ball/cup joints. In musical instruments felt is also used to dampen vibrations. It is used on drum cymbal stands, on bass drum and timpani mallets as well as piano mallets which are made of wool felt around a wooden core. When paintings are framed, felt is placed between the painting and the frame so a frame couldnt damage the painting. In fashion felt is used for hats, jackets, for details and decorations, pillows, bags and other clothing items.
We may think that felt-making is a new craft when we look at the array of beautiful felt art, wearable nuno-felted clothing, felt sculptures - to name but a few art forms - yet wool felt has been around for millenia.
Wool felt is one of the oldest forms of non-woven fabric it is older than spinning and weaving and many cultures have legends about how of felt-making was invented.
It requires no bonding agent or complicated machinery - the fibres fuse together with a simple combination of moisture, heat, massaging and slight chemical action (weak acid or alkali). As there are no threads it doesnt fray when cut. Think then how useful it would have been to our ancestors - who had access to sheep but no looms - in the making of shelter, rugs and clothing.
Image showing a traditional method of making wool felt blankets by hand
There are many legends as to Felt's invention
To prevent blisters, it is said that Roman Soldiers filled their uncomfortable boots with sheep fleece which they found attached to branches and twigs as they trudged through Wales. At the end of the day they would remove their boots to find felted wool socks, made from the fibres combining with sweat (providing heat and moisture) and being pounded during miles of marching.
Another story tells of Solomons son - a shepherd - who tried as he might to make wool fibres stick together. In a fit of temper he cried with frustration and stamped up and down on a fleece - when lo and behold he had discovered felt! Indeed, it could be possible that Jacobs coat of many colours was in fact felted from different coloured fleeces.
Other stories tell of felt being strong enough to compare with armour - able to withstand swords and fire. It is difficult to believe, as we strive to make ever finer felt that nomads have made tent coverings up to one inch thick. In Asia, even in the modern day, teams of men or women roll fibre bundles to make rugs. The process can take many hours and chants are sung to ensure a constant rhythm.
Fine felt rugs have been found in a Siberian Princes tomb - believed to be from a period at least 200 years BC - and these were in addition to felt used as decorations to blankets, masks, saddles and tent exteriors. Many different felt-making techniques were used including mosaic, inlay, appliqué and embroidery.
From about 400 B.C.E., felt was used so extensively in Central Asia that the area was known to the Chinese as "the land of felt." The goal of Genghis Khan was to unite "the people who live in felt tents," and by he ruled the second-largest empire in human history.
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As in the past, felt still plays an integral part in the lives of Eurasian nomads, who live in lightweight felt tents yurts - domed structures usually sixteen to twenty feet in diameter, made from a wooden framework covered with felt. Nomads also use felt for clothing, boots, hats, bags, carpets, blankets, horse paraphernalia, idols, and toys.
Modern Felt
The development of felting machines in the mid-s increased felt's uses - hats, slippers, the linings of silverware cases, carpet underlay, washers, gaskets, filters, polishing wheels, drum sticks, piano parts, felt pens and who remembers fuzzy felt toys?!
Images portraying industrial felt making machinery
Nowadays, with the decline in traditional felt-making for consumables and the decrease in commercial production, there has been a revival in interest in the study of traditional felt and the production of handmade felt in arts and craft. There will always be interest in the magic of wet-felting and uses for wool felt.
Images portraying wearable felted art
Source - The art of the Felt Maker - ME Burkett
Images taken by Jane Evans in India and Wales
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