Maintaining a beautiful garden and outdoor space requires reliable garden hose fittings. Garden hose fittings are essential components that connect your hose to a water source, nozzles, or accessories. You will need suitable hose fittings to irrigate the garden correctly. Therefore, gardeners, landscapers, and homeowners need to understand the types of garden hose fittings, their materials, and their purpose to ensure an efficient irrigation system.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore garden hose fittings deeply and tell you all you need to know about these components, from their types, materials, applications, and proper installation techniques to post-installation care.
Garden hose fittings are used to connect a hosepipe to the faucet, adaptor, and other accessories or to connect two pieces of garden hose pipes. They are also referred to as garden hose couplings, hose pipe connectors, or hose pipe fittings.
This article about garden hose fittings will help you become aware of the different hose connectors so you can purchase the right type of fitting for your garden and irrigation needs.
Garden hose fittings come in various types. Each type serves a unique purpose (i.e.: you can repair a broken hose by buying the right hose fittings instead of replacing the complete hose, which will be expensive). Let's look at the different types of garden hose fittings.
Threaded connectors are the most common type of hose fittings that have threaded endings and are used to attach two hoses of similar size. They are made of brass or plastic. Threaded connectors come in two categories: male and female. Male threaded connectors have external threading and female threaded connectors have internal threading.
A hose coupling connects or joins the end of a hose to another hose equipment, such as a garden tap or nozzle. Hose couplings are available in a variety of designs and finishes to suit different gardening needs. They are also available in one-piece or swivel designs.
Barbed fittings are used to attach hoses together as a repair part. These fittings feature barbs that grip the inside of the hose. Barbs or ridges are inserted into the hose, and they stay in place securely due to their design. Barbs can vary in size and spacing, depending on the fittings and their application.
A hose tap connector is a versatile connector that attaches a hose to an outdoor faucet. A garden hose Y connector allows you to water multiple areas at once by dividing a single water source into two hoses. It is designed to be leak-proof. Most garden hose connectors are made to fit standard outdoor taps.
Quick-connect fittings connect and disconnect the hose from the tap or accessories quickly. These fittings have a mechanism that allows for effortless connection without twisting or threading. Quick-connect connectors are ideal when the hose is often detached, like switching between different faucets or accessories.
Caps: They are used to cap off the end of a hose, outlet, or faucet when not in use. Caps serve a valuable function by preventing dirt and debris from entering the hoses.
Washers: They ensure a tight seal of garden hose connections to prevent leaks. Place them inside the threaded fitting.
Washer with Filter Screen: It combines the sealing ability of a washer with the additional benefit of a filter screen that helps prevent dust from entering the hose.
Installing garden hose fittings and connecting them to a water source is a simple process. Installation steps can differ slightly based on the specific type of hose fitting you're attaching. However, here is the process of installing these popular types of garden hose fittings.
Garden hose fittings are made from durable materials such as brass, plastic, aluminum, and steel. Their robust materials ensure they can withstand repeated use and exposure to harsh weather. Brass was the most popular material used to build hose fittings. After the implementation of the Proposition 65 Act in California, the industry started to make hose fittings and irrigation components from other materials such as plastic, stainless steel, and aluminum.
The most common materials are brass and plastic. Both have their own pros and cons, which we discuss below.
Brass hose fittings are most popular as they are made to last. These fittings are durable, strong, and corrosion-resistant, with good conductivity and high-temperature ductility. Since they are made up of sturdier material, which costs more to build, brass fittings are usually more expensive than PVC. Sometimes, brass fittings are coated with a layer of chrome or nickel for extra durability. If you want to buy long-lasting hose fittings, brass fittings will be the best choice. All brass hose fittings are available in either male or female adapters.
Pros: Durable, long-lasting, corrosion-resistant
Cons: Expensive, heavier
Suitable For: Areas with harsh weather conditions, long-term usage
PVC hose fittings serve the same purpose as brass fittings. However, they are less costly. PVC is a rigid plastic available in different pressure ratings but is prone to environmental weathering and damage from UV rays. Make sure to buy good quality PVC fittings that are long-lasting and reliable.
PVC hose fittings can perform well for many years, depending on usage and environmental conditions. However, severe weather and continuous use can lower their sturdiness with time, like any outdoor irrigation fitting. When buying PVC fittings, inspect the quality of used plastic. Good quality plastic fittings are tougher and durable.
Pros: Affordable, lightweight, corrosion-resistant
Cons: May crack under extreme temperatures
Suitable For: Perfect for everyday home use, areas with moderate climates
Note: When deciding on the material, consider crucial factors such as your budget, environmental conditions, flexibility, and pressure ratings.
Proper sizing is the most important aspect of garden hose fittings that should be considered after determining the type of hose fitting. The right size is essential to ensure a secure connection because parts that are too big or small will be incompatible and will connect poorly.
The fitting's size is determined by the inner diameter and outside diameter of its associated connections, and it is measured in inches or millimeters. A hose fitting that is designed to be connected to a hose with a 1/2" outside diameter is rated as a 1/2" OD fitting.
Garden hoses are designed with inside diameters of ½ inch, &#; inch, &#; inch, and ¾ inch. The garden hose fittings are sized to securely fit inside these diameters, ensuring proper connection. The garden hose fittings are commonly ¾" hose thread.
For thread fittings, the thread dimensions determine the size. The standard thread sizes for hose fittings are ¾ inch GHT and &#; inch GHT. In the US, garden hose fittings are made with a standard thread size known as Garden Hose Thread (GHT) and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) standard.
Here are some expert maintenance tips to help you care for your hose fittings.
Inspect your hose fittings 3 to 4 times yearly for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion. Look for loose connections, cracks, or leaks.
Fittings should be securely connected but not overly tightened, which can cause damage. Tighten them enough to prevent leaks without putting stress on the components.
Damaged fittings can cause leaks, inefficient water flow, water wastage, and damage to your garden. So, replace worn or damaged fittings as soon as you notice any signs of wear.
It is best to remove fittings before extreme winter and store them in a dry place to prevent freezing and damage.
DripWorks has a vast collection of garden hose fittings that ensure a leak-free and efficient watering system in your garden. We have everything you need to connect your hose to a water source or adjust it to suit your watering needs.
By following the above guidelines and steps, you can confidently choose and use the right garden hose fittings to elevate your gardening experience and fulfill your garden's irrigation needs. Happy gardening!
(Mechanical)
(OP)
10 Mar 16 21:14So, the last time I bought hydraulic hoses from a local supplier (who has since gone out of business), I simply told him I needed a 36" long hose with 3/8" NPT fittings (for a snow plow) ... I don't think he even asked what pressure rating, just assuming it was under psi. He didn't ask me how may wire lays or if I wanted "w" type fittings or much of anything.
Anyway .... I was about to order a flex hose and was a bit confused by my chooses.
I need: 36" long, I am running under psi (max my power unit will put out ... relief set to psi), SAE (ORB) 08 (1/2")fittings
So, the first item I pick is "hydraulax tough" from Discount Hydraulic Hose. 2 wire, psi, 3 1/2" bend radius .... $2.50 a ft ... looks great.
Then I keep reading ... R12 "very high pressure hose" ... 4 wire! but it only is rated at 4,000 psi with a 7" bend radius and costing $5 per ft.
And there are obviously other chooses (R16, R17, ...)
So two questions ....
1) as long as the pressure ratings are OK, is does it matter what hose I choose? I would have thought more wire wrap layers is better but yet the one with 4 layers has a lower pressure rating that the one with 2 layers.
2) some say "braided hose fittings" (standard crimp), some say "series W fittings" (bite to wire) and some give me a choose of either. I tried to find an explanation on the web ... I don't see one. I "assume" (but wanted to check with you guys" that the "bit to wire" fittings were better as I am guessing they penetrate the outer layer of rubber and "dig in" to the outer wire wrap layer.
Just want to make sure I order the correct hose.
Thanks ...... Mike
(Mechanical)
11 Mar 16 00:05A lot of what you are reading is puffery.The bite through fitting may be appropriate for the heavier cover "10X" more abrasion resistant Tough hose.Mixing fitting brand and hose brand may be risky, especially if the crimping equipment does not correctly crimp the fitting to the hose, bite through or not.Will the hose shop assure fitting and hose will meet your pressure requirements? Who manufactures the Hydraulax branded hose?You pays your money and takes your chances.
Ted
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 00:38Hmmmmm ...
So I take it,what you are telling me is that I should think about using a "name brand" hose?
So is one better than another I see Parker, Eaton, Gates ( I think I had gates on my snow plow ) ....?
Does the same go for fittings? Is a "brand name" fitting better than a "no name" brand? Is there a brand I should think about?
I just made the bad assumption that if they were "rated" for a certain pressure, they would work but maybe this is not the case?
Thanks ..... Mike
(Mechanical)
With competitive price and timely delivery, zkhthydraulics sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.
(OP)
11 Mar 16 01:04I should have asked also ... are all hydraulic hoses OK to use with synthetic oil?
I was planning on using the Royal Purple "Syndraulic". I did confirm that the oil is compatible with the buna seals in my pump.
Thanks again .... mike
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 01:33Sooooooooooo (sorry ... I keep adding to my post) ....I did more reading and may have found one answer ...I looked at this page and it has a chart saying only hose 100R7, 100R8 and 100R14 are compatible with synthetic fluids.Discount Hydraulic Hose does not even sell any of these hoses!I am confused a bit ( nothing new ) .... the guys at Royal Purple (actual factory not local rep) is telling me their fluid is compatible with petroleum based oil as they recommend it at a replacement for "regular" hydraulic oils.Then why is there only three hoses that are "rated" for synthetic oil???Thanks again ..... Mike
(Mechanical)
11 Mar 16 01:36You have to look at the inner tube material for compatibility with your synthetic oil. Or look at the synthetic oil material compatibility list.Back to fittings. The bite through would be used with non-skive hose and the other crimp fitting would be used with skived hose. Skive=remove the outer cover. Non-skive=do not remove the outer cover.
Ted
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 01:44Got it!
I was just about to write Royal Purple and ask their advice on hydraulic hose.
It is amazing how something as simple as wanting to use synthetic fluid can affect so many things. As I said in earlier post, I don't "need' to use synthetic fluid, I was just going to as I know it has superior lubricating qualities especially during start-up.
In honesty, I will probably take out the flex line when I am do setting the lift and pump. Right now the lift has some adjustment in it so I can align the lift. The original forklift was designed with a slight tilt (backward) of the mast. I need the lift to travel "straight" up to maintain the clearance between the car and the walls. I need the flex till I get everything set and lock in place.
Thanks again ..... Mike
(Mechanical)
11 Mar 16 02:27Forklifts tilt the mast to put a little slope on the fork roots, forward or back, to ease engagement and to compensate for deflection. If you are using a forklift mast, it's a good feature to retain, and in turn requires inclusion of a short hose section at the hinge.Since you intend to lift a car with the mast, I assume you'd be really upset about the consequences of a catastrophic hose failure.... which is a good reason to deal with a local supplier who will make exactly the hose assembly you need, using compatible hose and fittings.If you homebrew the hose assembly from random internet sources, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call?
Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 02:57Actually, I am using the lift as an elevator ... I know, scary thought.
It is for personal use so I don't have to worry about liability and such .... wife may kill me but she will not sue me if it breaks.
Even though the original forklift was designed for lbs of lift, I will have a load of 500 - 700 lbs ( electric wheelchair with a person and maybe an one person riding with them.
I didn't think about the deflection of the mast ( I should have ), I was just thinking they did this because of the "play" in the mast sections.
I am thinking I will load up the car (oh ... car .... now I know why you thought it was for a vehicle) .... sorry, load up the platform ( with solid walls and gate, open top ), with a load ( I was planning on using barrels filled with water ), and see if I can get the unit to lift "straight" up. I want this so I can maintain the clearances between the car and the wall.
With such a small load, I am guessing I will have a minimal defection of the mast. I will find out shortly.
I did order a velocity fuse (hose brake valve). I am (or was ... I will have to see if anything moves when everything is bolted down) planning to hard pipe everything. I was trying to get rid of one more possible failure point ... the hose.
Again, I am overbuilding ( and overthinking ) everything .... I do this on all my projects .... drives people crazy (but this was a good thing and encouraged when I worked in a nuclear plant). There will be no shock load since I have a flow control valve to slowly bring the flow up and down an the beginning and end of the lift. Since the load will be so small, the pressure will only be about 500 PSI. The lift is inside so no UV light, weather or such.
I just keep going over things one by one as I put the system together.
Thanks again ..... Mike
(Mechanical)
11 Mar 16 03:13I'm pretty sure this will end up more expensive than a wheelchair lift you can buy, but it will be a learning experience.
Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 03:45Actually, you would be surprise ....We started building almost 4 years ago. We had ledge just below the surface. We got a quote for $30k to dynamite the basement out. We got two companies in to give us a quote on an elevator ... two quotes ... $15K, plus we found a grant for $10K so $5K out of pocket. Great, so we decided to raise the house out of the ground. The ground floor is now our basement ( unfinished ), the first floor is now 10 ft up. The price of building a first floor out of the ground was much cheaper that just the $30K to dynamite a basement out. It actually worked out well since we live in VT ( very rural ) ...one side of the house overlooks a small river and the other looks out over a wetlands to the mountains.Anyway, this year we got both companies in ... both came in close to $40K .... OUCH! Even after a $10K grant, we don't have $30K.So I bought the forklift for only $850 .... with valves, a spare power unit (for an auto lift ... $500), and a plc to run the flow valve and control the interlocks ... I am thinking $3K to $4K in the project.I am a machinist by trade and also an electronic controls specialist. So most of this project is straight forward for me. I have interlocks ( so doors are lock when the car is in the wrong location), over travel switches (that kill power, not just tell the plc to shut down), timers to shut off a pump if it runs too long (I saw a contactor weld itself on once and a motor burn up). The main power is two 12 volt deep cycle batteries so it will run even if the power goes out. I have separate batteries for the controls so I don't loose them even if the batteries on the pump go low.My shop is not built yet (poured the pad last year ... will start it right after I finish this elevator ... wife is getting tired of living in the "basement"). I do have a welder inside the house so I can build the platform.It is an interesting project ... and I am learning a great deal about hydraulics!Really, I am sure most of the cost of medical equipment is driven by liability insurance and by insurance. If you look at the cost of anything with the word "medical" on it, it is usually a rip off. If I remember correctly, her last electric wheelchair (it has a tilt function so you can lay back ... to stop pressure soars) lists at $40K !!!!!!!!!!!!! She has insurance thought the state so I am not sure how much they actually paid for it but I am sure it was a lot.I have learned to build many items myself. My wife need care every 4 hours thus she had never traveled (she broke her neck when she was 12 diving into a pool and is paralyzed from the shoulders down).Just FYI ... here is a link to an old RV I converted 8 years ago so we could travel ( we ended up living in it for three years ... freezing when temps hit -30) http://mcsele.shutterfly.com/ Again, cost driven project .... $18K for the motor home ... they wanted $25K for a lift!Thanks .... Mike
(Mechanical)
11 Mar 16 04:19Shutterfly says:To view the photo book, you must have Adobe Flash installed.Not happening; I gave up on Flash years ago. Sorry.I'm sure it's a really nice piece of work.
Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
(Mechanical)
(OP)
11 Mar 16 04:49I understand .... Flash is something that still gives me trouble from time to time.
Pembroke Pines ... sounds nice. We made a trip last year ( needed a break between building and moving into the house ) to FL. My wife had never been to Disney ... she loved it!
Maye in a couple of years we will visit again and make it all the way down to the Keys.
She would love to move to FL ... wheelchairs in snow just don't mix.
Problem is her job and insurance is here ... that is why I moved here from SC.
Take care .... Mike
(Mechanical)
(OP)
12 Mar 16 00:53OK ... so I called Royal Purple and talked with the Manager of Technical Services Department.
He said their fluid is compatible in any case that you would use petroleum based oil.
In fact he gave the example that you would not to use their synthetic oil with EPDM ... but you could also not use petroleum based fluid.
Thanks .... Mike
(Aerospace)
13 Mar 16 00:23xtal01-I understand you are looking at this as a hobby project. But for the same amount of money you are going to spend refurbishing/converting an old hydraulic forklift you can buy a commercial grade platform lift ($) . This 600 lb capacity platform lift is driven by an acme screw which seems like a more fail-safe approach than the forklift, and also one requiring less maintenance. It also comes with some nice features like an auto-folding ramp and sensors to detect obstacles below the platform.Do the wife a favor and install a commercial platform lift that already has all of the design bugs worked out. Save all of your creative energy for constructing your new workshop.Best of luck to you.
(Mechanical)
(OP)
13 Mar 16 03:45We actually looked at one of these.
First problem is most (as the one you listed) only go up 8 ft (about 100 inches). We need to go up over 10 ft. This is where there seems to be a huge price jump.
Then they start with the adders.
You will need a motorized gate at the top and bottom .... big adders.
We actually tried one of these at a neighbors. One major problem was the size of the car. There was a legal limit to the size they can sell (I don't remember exactly their reasoning but something about platform lifts has a small size limit than a true elevator) though I do see on the one you found it says 60" optional and that would just work for her. My wife tired a couple of these from different manufacturers ( we even went to a disabilities expo to talk with manufacturers ). Her wheelchair is very large ... electric, center drive (6 wheels), motor on the back for the reclining seat function, ... to get the gate to close her feet hit the front. If I make my own, I can make the car any size I want. 60" literally just worked .... to make it easy for her not to hit each side I am aiming for just shy of 72" giving her 6" of clearance at each end.
And then there was the speed. I now they list 10 FPM ... not sure if that is realist .... most of the ones we saw were much slower. Not bad if you are going up 3 ft but 10 ft takes forever. I installed one of these last fall for an older neighbor ( found a used one for $ ). It was just to get her in the house ... about 3 ft up. It worked great for them. As you said, ramp folded up in the back to stop you from rolling off ( if you look at the one I built for the RV, I used the same idea ), the stop sensors are micro switches on a spring loaded plate on the bottom. The two biggest problems they had were 1) I still needed to put up a gate at the top so on one walked off the platform (in there case, I just used a chain) 2) the second problem was they had to load her one, run around the house since even with a manual chair they could not fit on the platform with a person, and meet them at the top. Again, my wife tried it and just could not fit on the platform.
The big jump in price the companies told me was 1) because we are going up 10 ft ... so you need a very heavy acme screw 2) automatic doors ... two stop stations both with electric doors that will interlock ... my wife could not pull in and then close a door/gate behind her and would not be able to open one that is behind her when she gets to the top.
I have built the house to give my wife a maximum independence. Even with no use of her hands, two years ago she learned to drive. She now had a van that she can get in and out of herself. For the first time in her life, she has the freedom to go where she wants, when she wants by herself. I want to make sure she can use the elevator completely on her own.
Really, these lifts are great to get up and down a couple of steps and have a small chair.
I do appreciate the advice thought .... it would have been much easier to just buy one if I could have found one that worked for us.
Mike
(Industrial)
20 Mar 16 01:24100R12 IS a psi, 4 wire isobaric hose that maintains the same pressure rating across all sizes. This hose was engineered for a torquing and twisting inviroment and still maintain a high isobaric pressure rating. This is found on harvesters, porters, excavators... This would most definatley be over kill for your application.
100R18 is a thermoplastic hose that commonly refured as lift truck hose fore its use in forklift lift cylinder tracks. This isnt what your looking for.
100R2 Is cheap, available everywhere amd high pressure ratings with smaller sizes. sometimes the simplest thing is the right thing.
However, if your operating pressure is sub- psi and your looking for a little more flex. Go with 100R17. This stuff is great for compact sitsuations where plumbling is a nightmare, or truck plows that are contantly moving in all directions.
As for bite to wire or standard hose fittings. I believe what your asking is skive or no skive fittings. People have been skiving for years but in the last 10 or 15 years, most major manufacturers have started there own no skive fitting revolution with the development of no skive ferrules for pressures up to psi. Make no mistake, these fittings are 1 million impulse cycle tested just like there skive counterparts. But ease of use, and no need for skiving tools allowed these fittings to become a hose makers choice. That being said, in pressures over psi skive fittings are still th only way to go.
(Mechanical)
(OP)
20 Mar 16 02:14Awesome explanation!
It is funny how the suppliers can not tell me this information. That makes complete sense!
I did find out a bit more about the bite to wire or standard fittings. Both are no skive. There web site says: These hose ends are similar to Parker in that they provide a deep bite crimp into the rubber hose using steel &#;fins&#; inside the ferrule to dig into the rubber hose and &#;bite&#; into the steel braid or spiral
It suggested that these can be used on any hydraulic line (even two wire) but are "made" to be use on heavy duty line such as 4 wire.
As you may have noticed from my postings, I am a true "pain in the butt" (just ask my wife). I hate making any decision without a clear reason. I was the kid who always ask "why"?
Thanks so much again ..... Mike
Please let us know here why this post is inappropriate. Reasons such as off-topic, duplicates, flames, illegal, vulgar, or students posting their homework.
Thank you for helping keep Eng-Tips Forums free from inappropriate posts.
The Eng-Tips staff will check this out and take appropriate action.
Click Here to join Eng-Tips and talk with other members! Already a Member? Login
For more information, please visit One Piece Hose Fittings.