@BendalfTheGrey
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Few notes before I share my recommendations on Deco units deployment.
Huawei echolife eg8145v5 is ISP Router. I checked its specs on the Internet, and it is not just modem, which is good. The simple way to check is to look at number of Ethernet ports device has, if it is more than one - it is Router for sure. This model, according to picture I found on Internet, has four. Make sure you double check it, the distinction between Router and Modem is important.
Main Deco will be connected to one of Router Ethernet ports, switch to another one, and you can use other two for wired devices if you need to. For example, if you have Smart TV nearby, it would make sense to wire it to that Router.
TP-Link LS1008g switch should work. According to TP-Link Support, it is recommended to use TP-Link switches with Deco mesh.
From what you said about why you need Deco mesh, I recommend you run in it Access Point mode. In Access Point mode you should get the best WiFi performance and maximum flexibility in how you can connect Deco units to Ethernet.
After you configured first Deco, which will become your Main Deco and must be connected by Ethernet to Router, configure Deco mesh to run in Access Point mode according to this document: How to set up your Deco in Access Point mode
After that, you can keep adding rest of Deco units to your Deco mesh.
When your Deco mesh is up and running, it is recommended to turn off WiFi on ISP Router. It will keep managing your network, while Deco mesh will be providing WiFi signal.
Now, deployment recommendation. You will need six M9 Plus units. Here is what I came with:
I have rotated your picture, and also on that picture placed Deco units. MD stays for Main Deco, SD1 through 5 stays for Satellite Deco 1 through 5.
On that picture:
First Floor
Main Deco - connected to (1) Huawei echolife eg8145v5
Satellite Deco 1 - connected to (3) Ethernet switch
Satellite Deco 2 - wirelessly connected to Main Deco
Second Floor
Satellite Deco 3 - connected to (4) RJ45
Satellite Deco 4 - connected to (5) RJ45
Satellite Deco 5 - wirelessly connected to Satellite Deco 3
-----
I am not completely sure what would be the best position for Satellite Deco 5, so I draw red square around locations you should try to see which gives best WiFi coverage to the right side of the second floor.
In current firmware version for Deco M9 Plus, which is firmware 1.5, it is not possible to manually specify to where Satellite Deco will be connected wirelessly. Which means, Satellite Deco 5 might connect to the different Deco and quality of Internet speed for mobile devices connected to Satellite Deco 5 could be degraded.
If that happens, you can either wait for firmware 1.6 which will let you you can configure to where Satellite Deco connects, or try workarounds. Leave that for the next step, after the deployment, if it'll become necessary.
In Deco app, for each Satellite Deco you can see which Deco it connects to, and with what signal quality. Here is example from one of my Satellite Deco M9 Plus connected wirelessly:
My M9 Plus Satellite Deco is connected to Deco I named Living Room, and signal between them is very good. To have good quality of Internet, each Satellite Deco connected wirelessly should have good level of signal in Signal Source, like on this picture. If it is Yellow or Red, you must move that Deco closer to one it is wirelessly connected to.
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(Structural)
(OP)
3 Dec 16 01:29I know we've beaten this topic to death but I thought I might revisit it one more time. The questions that are still nagging are:1.) Best placement of the mesh in the slab, centered, 2 in. from top, or stomped on by construction workers until it is in the bottom.2.) Should the mesh size extend to the perimeter of the slab? Ground clearance from edge and from bottom? If its a 4" slab isn't the 3" rule for reinforcement violated?3.) Most typical mesh size I've seen is 6x6-W2.9xW2.9 but I've also seen 6x6-W1.4xW1.4, any thoughts on what mesh size is best for a typical 4" and 6" slab (residential work).4.) I've seen dobie blocks and wire chairs used to keep up slab bars, what should be used for mesh? Won't the workers step on the mesh and bend it out of shape or push it to the bottom?5.) #3 Bar, Mesh, or Fiber? What do you use and why?For reference the image below shows a typical or proposed SOG with mesh reinforcement.
A confused student is a good student.
Nathaniel P. Wilkerson, PE
www.medeek.com
(Structural)
3 Dec 16 19:16Quote (medeek)
1.) Best placement of the mesh in the slab, centered, 2 in. from top, or stomped on by construction workers until it is in the bottom.
Quote (medeek)
2.) Should the mesh size extend to the perimeter of the slab? Ground clearance from edge and from bottom? If its a 4" slab isn't the 3" rule for reinforcement violated?
Quote (medeek)
3.) Most typical mesh size I've seen is 6x6-W2.9xW2.9 but I've also seen 6x6-W1.4xW1.4, any thoughts on what mesh size is best for a typical 4" and 6" slab (residential work).
Quote (medeek)
4.) I've seen dobie blocks and wire chairs used to keep up slab bars, what should be used for mesh? Won't the workers step on the mesh and bend it out of shape or push it to the bottom?
Quote (medeek)
5.) #3 Bar, Mesh, or Fiber? What do you use and why?
My opinion, presently:If it's a residential, 4" slab I put the mesh at mid-depth. If you're going to dodge the saw-cuts and get a modicum of cover, putting it in the upper third as some recommend is pretty tough. As I see it, the placement comes down to two issues as far as cracking goes. Firstly, the reinforcement helps with axial strains and cracking across the slab. For this purpose, position isn't all that important and mid-depth makes sense. Secondly, the reinforcement helps with flexural strain and cracking at the top of the slab where local hard spots may result in hogging moments. I say to heck with latter. In a 4" slab with saw-cuts, I doubt you'll ever get the reinforcing high enough in the section to be effective flexural reinforcement.I'd extend it to the perimeter or at least the last saw-cut joint if there is one near the perimeter. Cover is routinely violated in thin slabs on grade, both on the ground side and below the saw-cut joints. That's what's done and, at least for common interior applications, reinforcement rusting doesn't seem to come to pass or cause any problems. Slab on grade is, technically, not structural concrete.I've been using W1.4 for thing residential slabs. Frankly, I consider the reinforcing in these slabs to pretty much just be nominal rather than seriously purposeful. Where I'm doing non-calculated token detailing, I lean towards light. This . And yeah, it's a perpetual QC problem that routinely causes engineers to doubt the use of WWF for anything important.I like bars, fibers, or nothing from a performance/QC perspective as long as jointing is done properly. In my area it's almost always wire mesh because that's what contractors continue to prefer and expect.
I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.
(Structural)
4 Dec 16 04:10If you use mesh, use it in flat sheets, chaired using support bars/conc bricks, and make sure it stays in place. I don't spec mesh.
Dik
(Structural)
22 Apr 17 17:52First Post. I make my living off mesh, imo 10 gauge(aka W1.4) does not stand up to human traffic, I refuse to sell it...I see that it's heavily used to the east of the Rockies, which tells me 6x6-10/10 has become a creature of habit more than anything. The only place I would bother w/ 10 gauge is in thin Metal Deck slabs, but you have to specify Cont. slab bolsters (PRICEY). Buyer beware, if your Metal Deck floor isn't stiff enough, it will vibrate (tickle your toes) and drive the hot heads/impatient types insane. I wish Mesh makers would just eliminate 10 gauge completely. The fact the MDI (Metal Deck Institute) suggests it bums me out.
(Structural)
22 Apr 17 21:28 bars. If you do though, move up to a 6"-thick slab: its more practical, more workable, and more forgiving of slight reinforcement depth displacement. Space the bars at 16" o.c., so workmen can walk without stepping on the bars. And never, ever, let the workmen "hook and lift" ANY reinforcing - ever. As KootK suggested, if you want to keep the 4" slab thickness, opt for fiber reinforcing instead - it more than pays for itself in saved labor, and headaches about big shrinkage cracks forming because the wire was lying on the ground at the bottom of the slab, and working to exacerbate the cracking. The old joke around here is to use a "standard #6 slab": 6"-thick, #6 wire mesh, with 6" x 6" spacing. ;-)If you are looking to get flexural reinforcement ratios for a 4" S.O.G., then good luck - especially with wire mesh. All we ever use mesh for in the South is for typical T&S steel. If you truly need flexural capacity, then use. If you do though, move up to a 6"-thick slab: its more practical, more workable, and more forgiving of slight reinforcement depth displacement. Space the bars at 16" o.c., so workmen can walk without stepping on the bars. And never, ever, let the workmen "hook and lift"reinforcing - ever. As KootK suggested, if you want to keep the 4" slab thickness, opt for fiber reinforcing instead - it more than pays for itself in saved labor, and headaches about big shrinkage cracks forming because the wire was lying on the ground at the bottom of the slab, and working to exacerbate the cracking. The old joke around here is to use a "standard #6 slab": 6"-thick, #6 wire mesh, with 6" x 6" spacing. ;-)Dave
Thaidavid
(Structural)
23 Apr 17 14:24Agree with dik....rolled wire mesh is worthless. Use sheets if you use it at all. In my nsh opinion, T&S steel is unnecessary in properly jointed slabs on grade. Fiber can be used to enhance the properties of the concrete, but don't let it influence your jointing decisions. Sawcut joints early and keep the spacing to 12 feet or less, each direction with an aspect ratio of no more than 1.2. Use larger aggregate in the concrete and keep the W/C to less than 0.55. And.....control the thickness of the concrete by seeing that the subgrade does not vary in flatness in short distances.
(Geotechnical)
10 May 17 05:22Could you use fibre reinforcement instead? It is easy to spec location but actual "on the job" always screws it up.
(Structural)
11 May 17 16:18 .Best place for wire mesh is on the truck it came on, keep it out of my slabs.I use #3 bars instead.
(Structural)
(OP)
11 May 17 16:46How does fiber mesh really work. Once the concrete is cracked the fibers are rendered useless. Then you could potentially have differential settlement of your slab (case in point my garage has a nasty edge jutting up that I need to grind down but have never gotten to).
A confused student is a good student.
Nathaniel P. Wilkerson, PE
www.medeek.com
2
SlideRuleEra(Structural)
11 May 17 17:57Here is what a fiber manufacturer saysQuote:
How does fiber mesh really work?
Here is what a fiber manufacturer says "Understanding Fiber Reinforced Concrete" I'm a fan of fiber reinforcement and started using it, instead of wire mesh, when plastic fibers were first being introduced in the 1980's. However, neither fiber nor wire mesh are going to "make up" for shortcomings in design/construction.The first thing is to have suitably prepared subgrade. (Poor subgrade is probably the real cause of the problem in your garage.)Second, design the slab per's recommendations. (Then you don't really need either fiber or wire reinforcement.)Third,the concrete for many days - preferably 7. (Minimize concrete shrinkage to reducecracking. If unexpected cracks appear, they should be smaller because of reduced shrinkage... then, aggregate interlock works.)As a final step, take the money "saved" by not buying/installing either fiber or wire mesh and "spend" it on extra concrete. Make a 4" slab, 5" thick... make a 6" slab, 7" thick. The differential cost to do this very low. Subgrade preparation, forming, concrete placement, finishing, and curing are all virtually unchanged, regardless of slab thickness.
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