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We know that oxygen-free storage is new to a lot of you and we are here to help. Here are some of the best questions we've been asked along with the answers. If you have a question that is not here, please us at .
Mason jars kept in a dark place or properly sealed cans protect very well because oxygen cannot go through glass or metal. Mylar is virtually oxygen proof, but metal needs to be thicker than 15 microns to keep oxygen out completely. Even though Mylar provides great oxygen protection, glass and thick metal can be even better barriers and that is why they have been storage favorites too.
You can put them in just about anything for extra protection. Mylar is extremely tough and will probably be safe as is (Regular 3.5 mil Mylar can take the weight of 2 1/2 cinder blocks over each square inch) but you cant go wrong with putting them in a tub, 5 gallon bucket... You should try to place everything 6 inches off the ground also.
Once bags are sealed and absorbers have done their job, does it make a difference what type of container these are put into for storage? Any tub, box, etc.?
Premium Mylar bags, sealed properly with Oxygen Absorbers, can keep oxygen away for decades. Our standard Mylar should protect for well over 25 years when properly sealed with our oxygen absorbers. Food not subject to oxidation like honey has been found in Egyptian tombs in good shape. Without oxygen, there is no contamination from bugs, oxygen dependent organisms, mold, or oxidation. The products you refer to are using this exact same technology and you can easily do it at home.
Yes, that is absolutely possible. For dry, shelf-stable food, the limiting factor is how well you can keep the oxygen out.
The companies that sell long-term/emergency freeze-dried foods claim up to a 25 year shelf life. Do you think store bought food like pasta, rice, dry powdered milk, flour, potato flakes, etc can be home packaged to come close to their claim? Or what would your estimate be for home packaged food shelf life (I know it depends on the food, but you say for decades with appropriate containers)?
If you are sealing a very large number of Mylar bags on a regular basis, you may want to invest in a look into buying an impulse sealer.
If you are sealing quart or gallon sizes, a Foodsaver machine is great. you can turn the vacuum pump off because it isnt necessary.
If you are doing a moderate amount or small amount, you can just use a household iron or hair straightening iron. The process is perfectly safe for the bag and the iron.
Sure... It kind of depends on how many you are doing and what size:
I was wanting to know which sealer I should buy for mylar bags? Can you help me out? Thank you.
If you are using a Foodsaver, you can turn the pump off and just use the sealing feature. If you use a household iron or hair iron, there is no need to fold anything, just make a nice thick strip across the open end, with your clothing iron on the hottest setting. You can wrap a towel around a piece of wood like a 2x4 to make an easy ironing board.
When sealing, are you folding anything over (down) or just sealing the very edge? Either way, how far into the bag should you seal?
(Foodsaver vacuum sealers require special channel bags so the air won't vacuum out anyway. We also sell those vacuum sealer bags at a big discount to the name brands. )
You will not need to vacuum the air out as the oxygen absorbers do a much better job of eliminating the oxygen. You can turn the pump off and just use the sealing feature. Vacuum sealing may actually keep oxygen trapped in the bag longer by preventing circulation.
If you have a FoodSaver, that is a very easy way to seal the bags.
We send along a long-term food storage guide to help you through the process too.
If you plan on doing a lot of sealing, you may want to look into buying an impulse sealer.
A hair-straightening iron or household iron are favorite ways to seal the larger bags. (and the smaller bags too) It is easier than ironing a shirt: one or two passes with the iron creates a great seal and is perfectly safe for the iron and the bag.
If you have a FoodSaver, that is a very easy way to seal the smaller gallon or quart bags.
Mylar bags must be heat-sealed to be effective. (some have ziplocks for a temporary convenience but they still need heat-sealing for long-term storage)
I bought your 100 cc oxygen absorbers they look great.i wanted to ask you for beef jerky in a mylar bag that contains 3.5 oz. Can I use a 50 cc packed???
50ccs will probably be fine. 50ccs will deoxygenate a 1/2 pint container. If you push most of the air out of the bag before sealing it you should have much less than that.
The companies that sell long-term/emergency freeze-dried foods claim up to a 25 year shelf life. Do you think store bought food like pasta, rice, dry powdered milk, flour, potato flakes, etc can be home packaged to come close to their claim? Or what would your estimate be for home packaged food shelf life (I know it depends on the food, but you say for decades with appropriate containers)?
Yes, that is absolutely possible. For dry, shelf-stable food, the limiting factor is how well you can keep the oxygen out.
Premium Mylar bags, sealed properly with Oxygen Absorbers, can keep oxygen away for decades. Our standard Mylar should protect for well over 25 years when properly sealed with our oxygen absorbers. Food not subject to oxidation like honey has been found in Egyptian tombs in good shape. Without oxygen, there is no contamination from bugs, oxygen dependent organisms, mold, or oxidation. The products you refer to are using this exact same technology and you can easily do it at home.
Once bags are sealed and absorbers have done their job, does it make a difference what type of container these are put into for storage? Any tub, box, etc.?
You can put them in just about anything for extra protection. Mylar is extremely tough and will probably be safe as is (Regular 3.5 mil Mylar can take the weight of 2 1/2 cinder blocks over each square inch) but you cant go wrong with putting them in a tub, 5 gallon bucket... You should try to place everything 6 inches off the ground also.
Are there better containers than vacuum-packed/sealed plastic or mylar bags?
Mason jars kept in a dark place or properly sealed cans protect very well because oxygen cannot go through glass or metal. Mylar is virtually oxygen proof, but metal needs to be thicker than 15 microns to keep oxygen out completely. Even though Mylar provides great oxygen protection, glass and thick metal can be even better barriers and that is why they have been storage favorites too.
When packaging food items such pinto beans, where does the Oxygen Absorber go? in the bag or in the storage container/bucket
The Oxygen Absorbers (Oxygen Absorbers) need to be inside the heat-sealed bag. They are perfectly safe for contact with food and need to be able to remove the oxygen surrounding the food. If you use a bucket, that is just extra protection for the bag and you dont need to put an Oxygen Absorber in it. You dont even need a bucket for the process to work, but it can protect the sealed bag from falling debris, animals...
Should you fill to the top or have space left? Frankly I don't want to make a mess of my kitchen or waste bags pouring and then saying OOPS! when things don't fit right. (I think perhaps I should have gotten some 5 gallon size bags, but thought the 1 gallon would suffice.)
Yes, you are right, I think you just make a mess trying to jam them full. The real problem is trying to seal them if they are too full and the seal is very important so you want to leave enough room to get a wide, quality seal.
I recently purchased some Mylar bags and oxygen absorbers from you and have this question:
I have several bags of pilot bread, that I found at Wal-Mart. Essentially water crackers. Nothing but flour and water, some have cinnamon in them but otherwise they are Pilot bread. It will be near impossible to put an oxygen absorber every few layers in a Mylar bag and seal it while the absorbers are still active. Will it not work just as well if I use a HDPE bucket with a Gamo lid so I can work faster and will it achieve the right results ? I plan to remove them from their present bag and pack them loose. Thank You
Yes, that should work as long as the Gamma lid makes a completely airtight seal.
One thing that concerns me about buckets vs bags is that bags can form around the food and take up less air volume. I worry someone may not use enough absorption if there is a lot of extra air in the bucket. If you think that there will be a lot of air in the bucket you may want to use more absorbers.
A 5 gallon bucket holds about ccs of air, so that is ccs of oxygen. You can subtract the volume your food takes up, but if it is something light like crackers, your food probably is 75% air. If it is filled completely, then ccs of Oxygen Absorbers should do it, but if you have room left in the bucket you need to account for that air. I think I would feel most comfortable with two cc Oxygen Absorbers in this situation.
You can also use mylar bags inside the bucket. HDPE and PETE plastic will give you at least 5 years of protection from oxygen, (all plastic allows some oxygen transmission) but adding a Mylar bag can greatly extend that time.
We recommend you get your sealing done within 10 minutes, but realistically you have more time than that. Our absorbers will actually absorb 180-300% of their rating to allow for processing time. If you put one anywhere within a sealed bag or bucket it will deoxygenate the entire container.
I hope this helps. It seems like you have a great plan,
Hi there, First, thank you for the fast shipment! They are here already! Then, a question. I'm buying freeze dried and dehydrated food in #10 cans as the price is better that way. I want to store them in servings of two. For instance, I live alone, and when SHTF, I don't want to eat 16 servings of peas all at once. I am advised that once opened, all food in the can should be eaten within 5 days - 2 weeks., depending on what the can is. Soooo, I decided to repack, using my foodsaver and foodsaver clear bags into pouches of 2 servings. That way, I won't have to eat all the peas at once. I plan to put a 50cc absorber into the bags with the food, vacuum seal the individual bags, and store in a rubbermaid storage bin. I am not especially concerned with the color or fresh picked flavor, if the SHTF, getting nutrition is all that matters to me. Also, I can share some food with others without giving away how much I have. Please give me your opinion.
Your plan for portioning is really smart. Lots of people use 5 gallon containers and fill them with just pinto beans.. but a little extra planning will make using your food much better.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the vacuum sealer bags and their OTR. (oxygen transmission rate) The only complete barriers to oxygen are metal and glass. Oxygen gradually makes its way through everything else.
A better plan would be to put your portion bags inside a Mylar bag. You can use your Foodsaver to seal quart or gallon sized bags, or you can use a household iron to seal the 5 gallon bags. Mylar will provide much better protection from oxygen.
Have a great day and week,
Hi, Thanks for the quick response! I have a few quart mylar bags leftover from other packing I have been doing. I think that I will pack 5 or 6 smaller packets in the foodsaver vacuum bags and add a 50cc to each bag before sealing. Then, I will place them inside the mylar bag and seal that. This way, I'm only taking out two or three portion packs at a time. I have a zillion canning mason jars, so I can always store the open ones in that as I take them from lont-term storage. Thanks for the hint!
That's a great plan! I love mason jars as well because you can see the button on the top sucked it from the oxygen absorber and that is comforting.
What would be good to use a desiccant with? What should I put them in? I've never used them before can you send me information on them. Thank you.
Desiccants will buffer the moisture level and protect from soggy spots or incoming moisture when you have a moisture-sensitive product, or one that can end up packaged in a condition that it is not 100% dried when processed.
If your packaging provides good oxygen barrier protection, you may prefer the protection from an oxygen absorber. An oxygen absorber will not only prevent mold, mildew, bugs, and other oxygen-dependent organisms, but it also maintains product freshness by preventing oxidation that causes staleness, and color and nutritive changes.
Hope this helps,
I am also considering enclosing food-safe Silica Gel Desiccant packs (in addition to the O2 absorbers) when I vacuum pack/seal the food. What are your thoughts on adding the desiccant?
The desiccant absorbs moisture. If you have an Oxygen Absorber system with a good seal, there is not really a need for one usually. Mold or mildew is not an issue, moisture wont enter any heat sealed oxygen-free system, and you should only be using food with a 15% or less moisture content anyway such as dried food. You wouldn&#;t be the first to use one and it certainly wont hurt... it just is likely not necessary.
I just received my second order of mylar bags. They are great. Do you know where I might find a list of foods that DO NOT do well in mylar bags long term. I'm sure there are some foods that are NOT recommended for long term storage and I would like to know.
Items that should not be stored with Mylar bags and oxygen absorbers are fresh produce and anything requiring refrigeration. A good way to think of it is: Is the food dry and shelf-stable at room temperature? (cookies, dried items, flour, dry pet food...) or would it need to be refrigerated? (uncured meat, most dairy, cooked beans,...) Mylar bags and oxygen absorbers for long-term food storage should only be used with dry, shelf-stable items (they should have a moisture content of less than 15%)
Items that we are used to refrigerating are subject to anerobic bacteria, which are the only organisms that oxygen absorbers wont prevent. These items need to be canned according to the appropriate food safety standards.
Dry items that do not need refrigeration are not susceptible to that contamination and could not be stored any better way than in a sealed oxygen-free environment.
Oxygen absorbers can greatly increase the storage time for these dry, shelf-stable products:
Rice, pinto beans, grain, powdered milk, instant potatoes, jerky, pasta, cereal, oatmeal, muffins, bread, cookies, crackers, nuts, flour, seeds, dried fruit, dry pet food, livestock feed, bird seed, pharmaceuticals, medicinal herbs and artwork.
Some items that DO NOT do well are: fresh produce, fruit, raw meat or vegetables, cooked beans, dairy (except some cheese is good)
Thanks for the great question!
I was told that I have to dehydrate my fruit to the point you could hit it with a hammer and it would break. It is not very good that way. Do I really have to over dehydrate my food for it to last for a long time in a mylar bag with oxygen packs?
Good morning,
There is a lot of misinformation out there.
Oxygen absorbers can create an oxygen free atmosphere that will make "shelf-stable" food safe for decades at room temperature. Any food that is normally refrigerated though still needs to be refrigerated.
Food stored with oxygen absorbers should have a moisture content of less than 15% but it doesn't need to be over-dried, so I would think you can dehydrate your fruit just the way you like it.
If you don't dehydrate your product enough, it can become mushy over time though. Many times people will not realize there is still a lot of moisture within the product, and over time the moisture spreads through it making it mushy.
Dehydrating is another form of preserving, so when enough water is removed to consider it &#;dehydrated&#; then it is also safe for long-term food storage this way.
Also, I was told we could NEVER store dehydrated meat in a mylar bag with oxygen packs due to any fat content the meat has. Is this true as well? Thanks in advance!
Jerky is one of the top items stored with oxygen absorbers. When you make jerky, you try to remove as much of the fat as possible so it shouldn't be very fatty in the first place. As long as it is cured and dried enough, below 15%, dried meat is a good product to store this way. Most of the leading jerky manufacturers package their jerky this way now.
A good way to think of it is: is the food dry and shelf-stable? (cookies, dried items, flour, dry pet food...) or would it need to be refrigerated? (produce, uncured meat, most dairy, cooked beans,...) Items that we are used to refrigerating are subject to anerobic bacteria, which are the only organisms that oxygen absorbers wont prevent. Items that do not need refrigeration are not susceptible to that contamination and are good for long-term food storage.
Thanks for the great question!
Have a great day,
I have purchased some chocolate I would like to store. All of it is in some kind of packaging....large wrapped bars---also 'midget' bars , also cooking 'morsels.' Would I just store them in your bags as is w/o the absorbers? Will this do any good? Should I take the midgets out of the bag they are in but not unwrap them?
Chocolate will oxidize so I'd seal them in a bag with the Oxygen Absorbers. You dont want to trap a bubble of oxygen inside the Mylar bag, so it is always a good idea to either remove items from the bag they are in or poke some holes in it.
When storing rice I understand to put that directly in the mylar bags sans its wrapping. Would you tape the cooking instructions on the outside of the bag or will this damage the bag?
Both the Mylar and the Oxygen Absorbers are safe for direct food contact so usually people pour it right into the bag. There's nothing wrong with including the wrapping as long as you poke holes in it to prevent the oxygen from being trapped in there. Remembering the directions is a great idea! I'm going to share that one for sure :) You could put it in the bag or attach it to the outside, either way it will not effect the storage as long as it is safe for food contact. It is best if you can keep it outside though if there is ink on it that doesn't normally touch the food in its original packaging.
Hi, if I'm filling this bag with either rice or beans, would I use the 100 cc or the 300 cc oxygen absorber?
Usually 300cc is enough for a gallon, and with the rice and beans, 300cc is enough.
There are certain instances when you'd want to use 500ccs for a gallon,( pasta, potato flakes and other items with a lot of air in them) so that is what we usually recommend and what we supply with all our gallon sets, but as long as you are storing rice and beans, and using a bag and not a jar, you can push remaining air out and 300cc should be enough.
We will be storing dry dog food, which is one of those items which I assume is going to need more absorbents. We are looking for a maximum of a 2 -3 years storage period as we rotate stock. Many thanks and have a great weekend.
You are welcome. I'm glad you are not forgetting anyone. I always like to remind people not to forget furry family members. It is also good that you are planning a rotation. Oxygen-free storage in Mylar bags will keep food preserved for many, many years but a rotation is a much better plan than testing the limits of your storage system.
Same question for packaged noodles, except does using the oxygen absorbers make the noodles so brittle they become dust?
The noodles will be preserved the way they are and will not break down into dust due to the oxygen being removed.
Noodles are one of those items that will have a lot of interstitial air (air in between particles) as well as embedded air (air inside the pasta itself) so you are going to want to use the maximum absorption amount for the container you are using: 300ccs for a quart, 500ccs for a gallon, ccs for a 5 gallon. (these are the amounts we include in all our sets)
Also be aware that when there is a lot of air in the bag you are less likely to notice the shrinking effect that oxygen absorbers cause even though the oxygen has indeed been removed. Because oxygen is only about 20% of air, 80% will always remain so don't worry if you dont notice the vacuum effect, especially in items like pasta.
What do you recommend for dry items in boxes or bags with packaged sauce mixes inside? Stuff like Rice-A-Roni.
Packaging companies usually remove the oxygen from their packaging so you can probably place the mix in as is, but I would poke a little hole or two in the mix package if I wasnt worried about it leaking out. (One tiny hole is enough) Oxygen absorbers are by far the most effective method of removing oxygen, and some packaging companies still use vacuum-packaging or gas flushing, methods that leave a lot of oxygen behind.
Do items that are prepackaged freeze dried need to go in the mylar bags?
For more information, please visit HaiPak.
Our bags and Oxygen Absorbers are going to be superior to anything commercially packaged (unless canned) so it is always a good idea to repackage them. The quality of packaging and shelf life of commercial products varies greatly, but it will never be a bad idea to repackage them.
I am assuming anything in a can or glass or plastic jar is NOT put in the mylar bags. Is this correct, or would it also help to keep items fresher?
Oxygen absorbers should only be used with dry, shelf-stable food. If it is something you would normally refrigerate after opening then it needs to be canned. Canning is still an excellent way to preserve things so if it's in a can, just keep it there. Glass is also a complete barrier to oxygen so mason jars are excellent storage containers. Plastic varies greatly in it's barrier properties, ranging from a plastic baggie that is virtually useless to HDPE or PETE plastic that will keep oxygen out for about 5 years.
I'm looking for sealable bags to sell my coffee beans in. I need bags that will hold between 8-12 ounces of beans and that I can seal shut. Is that how these work? Do I need a special sealing machine to absorb the oxygen or to seal these? Do they seal at all?
Are you planning on selling them? If so, coffee is a unique item in the packaging world and should have a one-way gas escape valve because the beans release gas. If you look at modern flexible packaging for any coffee you will see one embedded in the bag.
If this is for home, then you dont have to worry about it, but be aware that the package may puff up a little.
Mylar bags like this must be heat sealed. The easiest ways are a foodsaver or a hair straightening iron if you have one.
The second easiest is with a household iron. It is easier than ironing a shirt - One or two passes with the iron on the hottest setting, steam turned off, creates a great seal and is perfectly safe for the iron and the bag.
If you are sealing a very large number of Mylar bags on a regular basis, you may want to invest in a look into buying an impulse sealer.
If you are using oxygen absorbers you dont need to vacuum the air, just put one it and seal it. It is the easiest way to preserve as well as the most effective.
We send along a long-term food storage guide to help you through the process too.
I hope this helps.
(This is the answer to a question regarding uses for oxygen absorbers and how to store certain food types)
Those 300ccs you have are good for using in mason canning jars ( one for every 48oz. or less ) or, if you have a Foodsaver, to keep muffins or cookies fresh in vacuum sealer bags for a couple months. Just make sure the container is completely air tight like a canning jar or if it's a bag it has to be heat sealed.
SALT, SUGAR, HONEY, AND CORNSTARCH are things that do not spoil. With these items you are not going to be concerned about oxygen, but just keeping them clean, dry, and protected from ants. They may get a little texture change, cake up a little, or in the case of iodized salt, become a little yellow over the years, but they are very chemically stable and will not lose flavor or become contaminated by microorganisms.
SEEDS, BEANS, GRAINS ... are subject to spoiling and oxygen-free storage prevents spoilage and contamination of these products. All of our Mylar bags sets are:
Quart: 300cc
Gallon : 500cc
5 Gallon: cc
This is enough absorption for any food type or any container. Any oxygen that makes its way into the bag will be absorbed by the Oxygen Absorber until it is full so if you have extra absorption power, your food will actually stay preserved longer.
PREPACKAGED FOODS depend totally on their packaging. Some are packaged well, some arent. Most commercially packaged items are packaged very well these days, but nothing will beat an oxygen absorber with Mylar or a mason jar. I would consider opening the package or making a hole in it so that you are not trapping oxygen inside your oxygen free container unless you think it has been packaged without oxygen in the first place.
Hi, I couldn't find the correct topic, I am interested in the Mylar sealer bags, I have never heard of them before, I have ordered 300 of your regular sealer bags just now, but these mylar bags interest me, can you tell me more about them, do they seal just like the heat seal bags and what exactly are those "oxygen absorber packets" ? I get that they are for food, but what makes them so unique
I still find this technology amazing so I love to share. I am having a Long-Term Food Storage Guide sent to you. It has some helpful information.
Oxygen either causes or permits most of the reasons food spoils. Oxygen absorbers (Oxygen Absorbers) are not a substitute for refrigeration, but in dry, shelf stable foods (rice, grains, cereal, pasta,...) eliminating oxygen can keep them preserved indefinitely.
Oxygen Absorbers have been used since in many products, they are approved by the FDA, and are non-toxic. They essentially eliminate oxygen so are the most effective preservation method and they are becoming very popular for many applications including DIY food storage.
When using Oxygen Absorbers, it is nice to own a vacuum-sealer to reseal the Oxygen Absorbers you are not using and to heat-seal Mylar bags. Oxygen Absorbers require an airtight container and there are actually very few choices because oxygen is very sneaky. You can use them in regular vacuum sealer bags for a few months of protection, but oxygen will eventually go through anything that is not glass or metal so for years of protection, the best choices are mason jars or Mylar bags.
Mylar bags are very sturdy and have been metalized to create an oxygen barrier. All Mylar bags, including ziplock ones, must be heat-sealed and the vacuum-sealer is great for the gallon and quart sizes. 5 gallon bags are easily sealed with an iron.
There uniqueness is their efficiency. Other methods leave a lot of oxygen behind that eventually spoils food through oxidation or permitting mold or oxygen-dependent organisms. When you seal up cookies or muffins with an Oxygen Absorber - even in regular vacuum-sealer bags - it is so amazing how they taste exactly the same weeks or months later. The Mylar will protect for years.
Please feel free to send your questions and have a great day,
I bought your 100 cc oxygen absorbers they look great.i wanted to ask you for beef jerky in a mylar bag that contains 3.5 oz. Can I use a 50 cc packed???
50ccs will probably be fine. 50ccs will deoxygenate a 1/2 pint container. If you push most of the air out of the bag before sealing it you should have much less than that.
On the Oxygen Absorbers, once a bag is open do you have to use them all right away or is the bag resealable.
You can reseal the bag along with any unused absorbers. It must be heat sealed just like the Mylar bags to make sure they keep their absorbing ability. You can use countertop vacuum sealer as well.
Another way to do it is to put unused absorbers in a mason canning jar. Canning jars are also 100% airtight.
If you can't do any of these, you can use a jar like a peanut butter jar, but it must be closed very tightly. If your jar is big, it is a good idea to use something like marbles (or anything that fits) to take up the empty space.
PackFresh Oxygen Absorbers are guaranteed to absorb at least 180% of their rating, giving you a buffer of safety, so if they are exposed for a while you can still trust them. Try not to let them be exposed for over 10 - 15 minutes though.
If you choose to include the oxygen indicator in your package or jar, (I always do) be aware that it can take several days for it to become pink again so dont worry if it stays blue for a while.
Have a great day
* and we are shipping cc of extra absorbers with our cc Oxygen Absorbers for 5 Gallon Mylar bags
Hello,
How are the extra 5,000cc's being distributed. As 5 extra 1,000ccs? So that each of my bags will then contain 1 2,000 and 1 1,000 when packaged?
We are now including a 10-pack of 500cc Oxygen Absorbers with our 5 gallon sets at no extra charge. That gives you some flexibility in how to distribute the extra absorbers.
One cc Oxygen Absorber used to be the standard for a 5 gallon bag, but it is not really enough for items like pasta or cereal that contain a lot of air. If you were to completely fill a 5 gallon bag with pasta, you'd really need -cc's of absorption according to the proper calculations.
Most of the time people have probably been okay due to the fact that a bag can form around food and take up less than 5 gallons of volume. Also, Oxygen Absorbers are typically UNDER-rated to give you time to work with them. (Our cc Oxygen Absorbers absorb at LEAST ccs.) But we feel we should send enough for all situations and food types and not count on the safety buffer and that is why we have changed our standard to include more absorption for all our sets.
Have a great weekend,
So if I understand this correctly the 300cc Oxygen Absorber is upgraded to a 500cc Oxygen Absorber? [for all one gallon sets] Is 1 packet per bag sufficient for dehydrated meat & vegetables?
Hello,
Yes, that is correct for all our gallon bag sets. That way one packet is sufficient for everything. 300ccs is often enough and others have been using that as a standard for years, but there are a few circumstances when it may not be so we decided to step up and offer 500ccs with ALL our gallon sets now.
Have a great day and feel free to send more questions,
You mentioned resealable foil lined bags....once opened, can these bags be reused? Or are you talking about a different product?
Yes and yes. Mylar bags must be heat sealed to keep oxygen out. If you cut it open and still have room, you can reseal it the same way you sealed it. (with a household iron, hair iron, vacuum sealer, impulse sealer...)
But I was probably talking about the Mylar bags with the zip lock seal. These still need to be heat-sealed, but some people like them to hold everything in place. I dont care for them myself and I am always worried someone is not going to read our directions or is going to buy from a seller who doesn't tell them that a zip lock will NOT create a seal that keeps oxygen out. They MUST be heat-sealed.
Are there any directions for how to open in order to reseal later?
If you think you may be doing that, leave yourself room by not overstuffing the bag and make sure your seal is at the very end. Then, if you just cut the sealed part off, you should have room to seal it again the same way. You can keep doing this as long as there is room
what are the vacuum sealer bag for and how do you use them for long term storage ?? Also can I store like rice or beans in quart mason jars and use oxygen eaters and what size would I use ???
the vacuum sealer bags are the same as the special Foodsaver bags that countertop vacuum sealers require. They are not nearly as good at keeping oxygen out as Mylar is, so it is best to use them
1. for things you will use within several months
2. for salt and sugar where oxidation is not an issue, or
3. For storing items that you will also put inside a large 5 gallon Mylar bag
Mason jars are excellent at keeping oxygen out! They are very convenient too.
We include a guide to help you figure out the absorption required. A good rule of thumb is 100cc for a pint, 300cc for a quart, and 500cc for a gallon. You may want to buy a pack of 100cc Oxygen Absorbers so that you can use one for a pint and 3 for a quart.
Can plastic sealer bags be used in place of mylar bags?
Yes, but for less time. The important factor is the OTR (oxygen transmission rate) of the bag. All plastics will allow oxygen through, but the amount varies greatly. For example, a ziploc baggie is like a screen door to oxygen, providing almost no protection but HDPE or PETE plastic will provide 4 to 5 years of protection. Sealer bags like we carry are very good barriers, but you'd only want to plan on using them for 3 months or so. The imports that are sold online are not reliable because they come from China.
The Oxygen Absorber (oxygen absorber) will deoxygenate the bag, and continue to absorb incoming oxygen until it is full. So you can use more absorbers and get protection for longer, but if you want to store food for years, you really should use Mylar (which is enhanced with aluminum) or mason jars.
Hi,
I received my order today, always super fast shipping with you as I am a repeat customer and will remain that way with the quality and service you give.
My question:
I plan on putting up some rice and beans among some other things in quart Mason canning jars and I want to drop in a 100cc oxygen absorber and then immediately seal the jar using my Food/Game Saver vacuum machine with the proper Mason jar attachment.
My thought process is that the Food Saver doesn't remove all the oxygen and the 100cc absorber would help take up any slack as far as oxygen left in the jar.
I am often on a Survival Forum and I explained what I was planning and one guy said that the oxygen absorber WOULD NOT WORK if I use the Food Saver on the Mason jar. Something about not being enough oxygen left in the jar to activate the absorber. What say you?
So should I use both the Food Saver AND the 100cc absorber?
Please let me know if I can quote you on this particular Survival Forum or not and I will respect your wishes.
You are absolutely correct!
The kind of oxygen absorbers that are sold for this purpose do not require anything to activate. (At PackFreshUSA, these are the "S-Type")
The chemical reaction is an iron carbonate formulation absorbing the oxygen to form iron oxide. It is called an exothermic reaction, meaning heat is generated from the process. (a little bit) It does require a small amount of water which is entrapped within the s-type absorbers, and of course it does require oxygen, but there is not a minimum required.
Many people use a vacuum-seal/ Oxygen Absorber combination which is not necessary, (Oxygen Absorbers are over 10x more effective than vacuum sealing) but it does help in that the Oxygen Absorber does not have to work as hard so you can use a smaller Oxygen Absorber or even better, let it retain some absorbing capability in case a little oxygen makes its way into the container. (your jar system is very solid though)
Hi, I packaged dehydrated spaghetti sauce/pasta in my Mylar bags, plus used my 300cc absorbers....used an iron exactly how u tube shows us to do, left them over night, and the packages DID NOT shrink around the foods like its suppose to. Would the absorbers have been no good? I don't know what else I could have done wrong. If u can help, please do. Thanks
Good morning,
It is important to know that you may not always see that vacuum-packed look even though the oxygen has indeed been removed. This is a very common misconception. It is based on fact because you often WILL see this, but if you don't that does not mean it didn't work. Oxygen Absorbers do not absorb air; they absorb oxygen, which is 21% of air. That means roughly 1/5 of the air volume will be gone but 4/5 of the air will always remain no matter how many Oxygen Absorbers are used. (The remaining air is mostly nitrogen along with very small amounts of other harmless gases)
You can increase the chance of seeing the vacuum effect by packing the food tightly and being certain there is very little air in the package. However, especially if you are storing pasta, potato flakes, cereal or other items that contain a lot of air, there may be too much air within the product itself for you to notice the 20% decrease and there is nothing you can do about that. It is important to confirm the freshness of the Oxygen Absorbers as you put them in because there is NOT a reliable way to know they have worked after they have been sealed in a Mylar bag.
Here are OAP freshness confirmation steps:
Before you open the Oxygen Absorber package:
1. Your Oxygen Absorber package should be vacuum sealed. Air could not have entered the package if it is undamaged and under vacuum.
2. The oxygen indicator should be a shade of pink or red, not dark blue. Pink is the typical color, but some are more of a brown or red &#; and that is fine &#; the indicator will turn dark blue when oxygen is present. The indicator was dark blue when the package was sealed, so the pink shades are a positive confirmation that the Oxygen Absorbers work and have removed the oxygen from the package. After you open the package...
3. The Oxygen Absorber should feel soft, like it contains powder. When an Oxygen Absorber becomes fully exposed, it feels solid and crunchy. If you ever get the chance, leave one out in the open overnight to feel the difference
Let me know if there is anything else I can do or let you know - including replacements - that will help make you 100% comfortable, because that is absolutely vital when storing food for the future.
Have a great day and week,
hello....i just bought the mylar bags with the oxigen bags...the intructions says that if they feel hard not to use ....they feel hard....what should i do?
Hello,
If I'm understanding this correctly, they should be fine to use because I think you haven't opened the package yet. They arrive in a vacuum-sealed package and when they are packed like that they do feel very hard.
When you open the package and take one of the oxygen absorbers out, it should feel like it has powder in it. (If it feels like it has rocks in it, then don't use it... but this is extremely unlikely unless the package was damaged in transit)
Also, If you have not opened the package yet, you should be able to see a pink oxygen indicator. This is a sign that the oxygen absorbers are working properly and have removed the oxygen from the package. When you open the package, that pink indicator will immediately turn blue when the oxygen in the air touches it.
We guarantee our products and I will replace them if they are exposed, but if you haven't opened the package yet, then they should be fine and will feel soft when you use them.
If you have any more questions or concerns please send them.
While shopping for mylar bags I have discovered many negative comments concerning pin holes in the bags due to folding the bags for shipping. Please address this concern
Yes, what people are seeing (and misunderstanding) is normal and occurs with all Mylar that has been metalized for use in food packaging or long-term food storage.
Mylar is actually transparent. While Mylar is an excellent oxygen-barrier by itself, metal has been added to the Mylar to increase its barrier properties even more. The Mylar film is made through a lamination process so there is an actual separate layer made of aluminum.
Mylar is very tough, but metal is brittle, so normal use will cause tiny breaks in just the foil layer that looks like a pinhole if held up to the light. There is no way to completely eliminate them, but those breaks will not significantly effect the performance of the film and they are not holes in the film, just little breaks in the aluminum where you can see the transparent Mylar underneath.
The oxygen absorbers you sent me are not right, something is very wrong with them... the dot that was in them started changing color almost as soon as I opened the package, it is now blue, I do not believe it's supposed to be that way... in the time it took me to take the pics it seemed that the absorbers started to balloon the bag, and I just got these items today... please make this right!
Hello,
First, I want to assure you that we have an unconditional guarantee, so if you are unhappy for any reason, you can get all your money back. It is important to us that you are completely confident that your food is protected.
It sounds like everything is as it should be. The pink dot is an oxygen indicator and while in the package (which should be vacuum sealed before opening ) it lets you know that the absorbers are in good condition because they have removed all the oxygen from the package and there is no hole in the package that is letting oxygen in.
The second you open the package, oxygen will hit the indicator and it will start to turn dark blue just as you said. The vacuum sealed package will also fill with air.
They are like sponges in that they absorb oxygen and when full, will not absorb any more.
Did you either reseal the package after opening it or place the absorbers in an airtight container like a mason jar? It is okay if they are exposed to the air for a short while. (we recommend no more than 10 minutes or so, but after 2 hours left out in the open air they will be completely used up) After opening the package you need to either use them or store them in an airtight container.
Let me know if you have any questions about this or if there is anything else I can do - including replacements - that will help make you 100% comfortable, because that is absolutely vital when storing food for the future.
Got my 100ct 100cc absorbers today and was wondering what color the dot thing will be when I need to buy fresh ones... I want to make sure that I don't lose anything I use them in due to old absorbers... thanks!
The indicator really is only meant to be used once to show the package has not been compromised. It will turn blue the moment oxygen hits it. You can often use it again, as it will usually become pink again when returned to an oxygen-free environment, but it can take days sometimes to return to it's pink color.
Also, Oxygen absorbers dont get old, but if they become exposed to oxygen, they will fill up and wont work anymore so you need to keep them sealed as much as possible prior to using them.
Lets say you put an Oxygen Absorber (oxygen absorber) in a mason jar with some seeds. It will clear all the oxygen from the jar and because a mason jar is 100% airtight, you will NEVER need a new Oxygen Absorber. The oxygen is gone and will never return until you open it.
Lets say you put an Oxygen Absorber in a vacuum sealer bag with some food. A vacuum sealer bag is a pretty good barrier, but ALL plastic will allow some oxygen through. The Oxygen Absorber will clear the oxygen, but over a few months, the oxygen will make its way back into the bag. You could repeat the process if you wanted.
lets say you used a Mylar bag... Mylar is designed to keep oxygen out, but it's not perfect like the mason jar. Still, you wont have to worry about exposure for YEARS. Its a good idea to rotate your food yearly, but you actually have many years to decades before oxygen gets in.
We have "Century Mylar" bags that literally will keep oxygen out for 100 years when used with our Oxygen Absorbers that come with them.
Hope this helps
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