8 Tips for You to Buy Steel Bars!

Construction of house needs different materials and hence needs study. The general guide points have been discussed by us in Material Buying Guide In General. Here we discuss buying guide for steel.
One need to do adequate research when you plan to buy steel bars. The steel bars are important for the life of the structural system. They are known as rebars in short form. They are also known as reinforcing bar or reinforcement steel.
Steel bars and cement are the most important materials used in the building. The strength of building is directly related to the strength of steel bars. We already discussed the cement buying guide in our recent content.

For more information, please visit our website.

There are two types of steel bars in the market.

a) Mild Steel Bars:

Mild steel bars are plain in surface and are round sections of diameter from 6 to 50 mm. They can be manufactured in long length and can be cut quickly and bend easily without damage.

Mild steel bars are available in Fe410-S (Grade 60) or Fe410-O (Grade 40).
Medium tensile steel bars are available in Fe540 (Grade 75)

b) High Strength Deformed Steel Bars:

High strength deformed steel bars are provided with lugs, ribs or deformation on the surface of the bar to improve the bond with the concrete. They are also twisted to improve the bond with the concrete.
Cold twisted deformed bars (Ribbed or Tor Steel Bars) are recommended as best quality steel bars for construction work.

They are available in Grade Fe415, Fe415D, Fe500, Fe500D, Fe550, Fe550D, and Fe600.
Fe indicates the specified 0.2 percent proof stress or yield stress in Newton per square millimeter.
You will have to spend a lot of time towards reviewing types, brands and its grade while buying.

01. Why do You Want to Buy Steel Bars?

Steel bars are needed as reinforcement in RCC structure. Concrete is the materials that is very weak in tension but strong in compression. To compensate for this imbalance of concrete, we provide steel bars in concrete to increase its tensile strength.
You therefore have to select the right type and grade of steel bars depending on your requirement or as considered in structural design/structural drawing by the structural engineer.
First you have to decide why and where do you need steel? i.e. for foundation, slab, and beam, column or for water tank and where is your area located? I.e. near the sea shore is It in corrosion prone area? You may than need CRS steel.

02. Quality and Specification of Steel Bars:

You can check the quality of steel bars by following steps

• Buy only that grade of steel, as prescribed in drawing.
• Check the identification mark on the bars from the manufacturing company. Identification mark will be marked at every running meter of the bar length.
• There should not be any rust film on bars. Always buy steel bars, which are rust free.
• Check the diameter of the bar by vernier calliper and it should be the same as specified in drawing.

a) Steel Rolling Margin:

Check the percentage of deviation (Rolling Margin) in weight of reinforcement steel.
Rolling margin is very important when you buy in tonnes, and you get paid in lengths.
Avoid using steel from those rolling mills which use &#;rerolled or scrap steel&#; as a row material. These are likely to have higher carbon content, which are prone to high corrosion.
b) Always ask for &#;chemical composition&#; test from the supplier. Apart from other material, the content of carbon is very important. It should not be more that 0.25 percent as it would accelerate corrosion and which will not only reduce the life of building but also will increase periodical repairing work.

c) Readymade Cut Bars:

Normally in advanced countries, people don&#;t buy steel, but they buy &#;Readymade cut bars&#; as per designed length and shape i.e. as per bar bending schedule.

They have to be simply placed in position. But here also you need to exercise many of the above points.
When you buy &#;Readymade Cut bars&#;, check the following
(i) Check the shape and length of each type of bar as per bar bending schedule.
(ii) Check nos and stack each bar separately.
(iii) Always check the hooks, its shape and length.
(iv) Check the quantity.

d) Certification:

Check whether the steel bars you buy bears a national certification like ASTM A706, JIS G, BS, ASTM A615, JIS G and IS 432 (Mild Steel Bar), IS (High Strength Deformed Steel Bar) etc. The certification assures you about its quality as well as the reputation of the manufacturer.

03. Study of Product Literature:

When you buy steel bars, you should read all the technical specifications which are either described in the product literature or on the manufacturer&#;s website. We have to check whether the product specification represented by sales persons and the literature confirms or not. Try to understand and follow all the cautions of use and advice for use, etc. as per the written specifications in the literature. It is also necessary to read the terms and condition of warranty, guarantee, etc.

04. Finance:

• Budget:

You may economise and save on each and every individual item, but you should not save on steel bars. They are the definite requirement of your house and directly related to safety and stability of your house.
It is advisable to provide steel bars as specified in drawing or as instructed by the structural consultant. Some people avoid consulting the structural consultant and providing the steel as per thumb rule to save the fees of the structural consultant. They forgot that every structure has carried different behaviour and one cannot use the same thumb rule for different structures. Do not get away by idiotic thumb rule of using this 2 to 3 kg of steel per Sq.ft. One thing we can tell you that thumb rules will raise your budget in future as they ultimately increase the cost of repairing work. They either excess your budget by over design or reduce the lifespan of the structure by under design.

• The Quantity You Want to Buy:

You should also estimate the exact quantity of steel diameter wise. The wastage of steel bars will cost you high. You need to work out quantity in advance so you can bargain with the supplier or distributor.

• Where is it Available, From Where to Buy Steel Bars?

You must search for the right supplier or distributor and their location. You should also find out whether it is directly available from the manufacturers or distributors or retailers etc. The price will definitely depend on from whom you buy the steel bars.

• The Cost of Transport/Taxes:

The cost of transportation, taxes and duties including the cost of loading and unloading at the site are the necessary point to remember as they also affect your budget while buying steel bars. Steel being heavy material, they form substantial weight and hence higher cost of the transportation.

05. Brand:

Always use the popular brand of steel bars as they may have a certain quality. It is advisable to use the brand suggested by your structural consultant or use the government-approved brand or ISI brand.
The Price of steel bars vary between Rs 30 to Rs 60 per kg. Kamdhenu, Thermax, Tata Tiscon, Jindal, Essar, Vizag and Electro are the popular brands of steel bars in India who make different types of steel with different grade.

06. Buy Steel Bars after Testing:

Always try to learn how to test the materials on site as well as in laboratory in case of bulk buying.

a) Hardness Test:

• Take 1 m length from each diameter of bars belonging to different lots. Bend the bar by applying pressure at both ends with your hands.
• Observe the bend portion. It should be smooth.
• If the steel is not of good quality, it may break or develop cracks on the surface. Such steel should be rejected.

b) Weight Checking:

• Take the exactly 1-meter length of each diameter of the bars on the random basis.
• Weigh each sample on a weighting scale.
• Compare the weight with the theoretical weights given in codes and assume rolling margin.
• The difference in weight which is called rolling margin should not be more than 5%.

07. Selection of Material and Supplier to Buy Steel Bar:

Study the above factors of steel bars and then select the right material and the supplier.

• Placing Order:

It is advisable to place written order if you are buying the large quantity. It should include specifications of steel bars, rates including taxes, transportation, and loading-unloading charges, etc. It should also include quantity, time of delivery, warranty, guarantee, terms of payment including advance.

• Receiving Material:

When you receive steel bars at the site, please check the make, quantity and quality. Also check ISI marks, brand and whether there are any damages to the steel bars.
Also check the weight of steel bar received on site by at approved weighbridge.
Use this formula for the actual weight of steel (site) = Total weight of truck with steel bars &#; The empty weight of truck (Weight without steel).
Do not stack directly on the ground as the ground moisture will rust it. Store the steel bars in godown and place wooden batten below them so they should not directly rest on ground.

• Payment:

If you are satisfied with the quality and quantity of the steel bars, then make payment as per the contract and obtain the receipt of payment. Preserve all the bills, product literature and the warrant/guarantee certificate, etc.

08. Life of Material:

The steel bars are generally one-time purchase, and it has a long lasting service life when embedded in concrete. If we leave them in open environment, they get corroded fast. Hence try to use them as early as possible or store steel bars in warehouse.

You can buy steel bars in 8 mm (18 nos per bundle), 10 mm (12 nos per bundle), 12 mm (8 nos per bundle), and 16 mm (5 nos per bundle) sizes. They are commonly used for house construction. You can also buy steel bars with the bigger diameter of 20 mm (3 nos per bundle), 25 mm, 28 mm, and 32 mm, which are used for high-rise buildings only. They are generally packed in the bundle, and above 20 mm diameter, they are available in the single piece.
The standard length of steel bars is 12 meter, but you can select the length as per your requirement.
Nowadays Thermo Mechanically Treated (TMT) steel and Corrosion Resistance Steel (CRS) are also used in Reinforced Concrete Framed Structure construction. They have good elongation, bending strength, ductility and high tensile strength and high corrosion resistance.

Conclusion:

• Buy the popular brand of right type and grade of steel bars from the right supplier as per your need.
• Place the written order. Written order should include specification, the quantity, type, grade, time of delivery and terms of payment, etc.
• Once you are satisfied with quality and quantity as per your requirement, make the payment and obtain the receipt of payment. Preserve the entire purchasing document as you may need them in future.

Must Read:

Sprout

Posted 5/19/ 09:02 (#)
Subject: Advice needed for small concrete job

I've never done cement work in my life so forgive my ignorance. I want to erect a 20' ornamental windmill with 5' fan in a fairly windy area. My wife wants to plant things underneath so I want to cement 4 columns where the legs sit. I was going to use a hand post hole digger as deep as it will go and use a 5 gallon pail at the top for a form to give a little more surface area. Will that be good enough to hold it in a strong wind? I was going to go to Menards and buy the small bags of cement but there are so many types I'm not sure which one to use. I was wanting something I could dump in a wheel barrow, add water, mix it up and dump in in the hole. Does a sand mix sound right? Any idea how many bags I would need for 4 holes about 4 feet deep? Do I need to add any type of wire or metal for strength to help hold the cement together?  I'm pinning my hopes on you guys. You AgTalkers are my go-to guys in a pinch!

Gerald J.

Posted 5/19/ 09:28 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

They sell paper tubes that would have a smaller top surface than the 5 gallon bucket for such purposes. I'd go with the cheapest per sack concrete, won't set up too fast either. A rod to the bottom with threads on the top for the foot of the wind mill tower would be stronger than just a J bolt into the concrete top.

An alternative I'm considering for a much taller (guyed) radio tower is a few screw in anchors. I think one per leg of your wind mill tower would be enough if the plates are 6 or 7" diameter, just screw it straight down, one under each tower leg. Adapt the eye to the leg foot with a few inches of 4" angle iron and some bolts.

Gerald J. LJR

Posted 5/19/ 09:28 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

NW Ohio

How deep you go will depend on your location and frost depth. I'd think a 20 ft. Windmill you would need to go a little deeper than 4ft. A little rebar never hurts anything. I'd probably try to use something a little bigger in diameter than a five gallon bucket. Maybe a 30 gallon barrel if you have any laying around? That might be a little more than you need but I'd rather over build than under build. Good luck. E718

Posted 5/19/ 09:59 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Sac & Story county IA

Your idea is good. A couple tips I would add is when digging, if you could make the bottom of the hole bigger. Sort of flare it out. That would give a lot of pull out resistance. The second thing is if you have access to a welder, a couple 1/2 inch rebars to bottom of hole and a piece of threaded bar welded to them at the top. Have a couple inches sticking out of concrete to fasten windmill to. The mix with the biggest stones in it is what I would use. If there is gravel mix, go for that.
If you have a shop vac, they help like crazy to dig deep holes.

On real big poles the rule of thumb is 4 feet plus 10% of height of pole. So, 20 foot would be 4 feet plus 2 feet. But that is just setting a pole in dirt with no concrete ballast. So your 4 feet is close.

Edited by E718 5/19/ 10:02

KTinSD

Posted 5/19/ 10:19 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

East Central SD

About 20 years ago I moved a full-size windmill from one of our fields, to my back yard. I believe originally it was 30 feet (the legs consisted of 3 10 foot sections) and when I put it in my yard I only used the top 2 sections, making it 20 feet tall. I used a post hole auger and dug the holes at a slight outward angle trying to match the angle of the tower legs and then used a piece of the unused bottom section in the hole. Since the angle iron I concreted into the ground was actually the top 4 feet of the original bottom section of the legs, it already had the matching bolt holes, I just welded a few pieces of rod to it cross-ways. The only trick was to get the angle and the spacing as accurate as possible before putting the concrete in the holes so the original cross bracing would all be tight when done. I just left the concrete flush with the ground, put down plastic, rock, and the old pump. It worked out very well. As occasionally mentioned on AgTalk, we often get some crazy winds here and so far it's still standing! That's how I did mine.

I'm not an expert on concrete so I probably just asked what the strongest mix was. 4WD

Posted 5/19/ 10:38 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80

Have you watched some you-tube videos, about concrete and such? (forms, templates, concrete anchors, ground wire, etc?)

 

Here's one about a windmill tower, maybe you will get some ideas:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe7-GxiqTro

paul the original

Posted 5/19/ 10:40 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

With competitive price and timely delivery, Xingtai Steel sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

southern MN

I know very little about concrete jobs, so if you follow my advice you may get less than you are paying for it...

If you mean you are digging a 8-10 inch wide hole, and putting a 5gallon bucket size pad on top of it, that is exactly wrong. You then have a upside down wedge or funnel shape in the ground, which frost (even wet/dry cycles) will wedge upward over the years. As well such a footing is very easy to pull up, and a windmill puts a lot of upward force on half the legs.... You need the sidewalls of your footing straight or flared wider to the bottom, either works, but you don't want them fatter at top, narrower at the bottom.

Sand mix is great for filling in old rock foundations or putting blocks together, it would work for you but the regular gravel mix would be normal for your job. You don't need anything special for this, 'the cheap stuff' should be fine. You are making an anchor, not a special need.

Rebar or as the other fella mentioned angle iron all the way to the bottom of your columns is needed to hold things together. Concrete is a good anchor mass, but it does not have a lot of pull apart strength and likes to crack and or pull apart, so you need iron in it somehow to take the tension load.

Here is what you are doing: on the downwind side of your windmill, the wind pushes down hard. You are providing a fat enough footing so the leg doesn't push down into the ground on that side. The tall windmill pushes a lot of force down into the rather narrow base of a windmill. On the upwind side, there is a force pulling up on the legs. Concrete offers a big round base to transfer that pull to a lot of ground around the concrete, but it isn't very strong in that pull apart pressure so you need the rerod or good angle iron all the way through; and it needs a smooth or flared at the bottom or cross rod at the bottom to keep the concrete ball anchored in the dirt.

The lifting force on one side is about equal to the pushing down force on the other side, and you need to account for both.

Its simple stuff, not complicated, but just need to think it out.

Paul LTex

Posted 5/19/ 10:44 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

West Texas

Not sure on the size of pier you will need since that is based on the area that the wind will hit (which causes an overturning moment). But here are a few thoughts to help.

1) In certain parts of the country the soils are vary expansive and having a mushroom of concrete on top of your pier can cause the soil to push the pier out of the ground. In colder regions freeze thaw can be an issue. Non expansive soils this is less of an issue.

2) Welding rebar is a good idea for a tie down but to do it right you need grade A706 rebar. The typical rebar gets brittle and is not rated for welding.

3) psi concrete for what you are doing would work. This is a simple mix that may come in a bag.

4) Rebar in the piers is required to transfer the wind forces down into the ground. A simple rule of thumb is 1% to 1.5% rebar to the cross section area of concrete.

5) Once you start pouring a pier finish the pier do not allow cold joints to form along the pier length.

6) There is a product called sonotube that makes a nice round form for your pier top that is made out of cardboard. I think the smallest they come in is 12" in diameter. A plastic bucket will work as well. If you need a form release agent to allow the concrete forms to fall off there are products at any home improvement store that will work but if you get in a bind diesel will work. IowabigTee

Posted 5/19/ 11:27 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

I did exactly what you are talking about last year. My windmill is over 40 ft. Took my post hole auger-9in. and went as deep as it would go-then belled out the bottom with a shovel-then made tem-plate out of angle iron to match holes in legs. Took old clamp-on dual bolts and cemented them in place with a up-side down plastic bucket with the bottom cut out. I poured one at a time and used my tem-iron for location. Used what ever Menards had on sale-threw a shovel of crushed rock in with it. We had 60 mph wind 3 nights after we got the windmill up and it is still standing. Don't know where you live but if you are close you can borrow my cement mixer.

Edited by IowabigTee 5/19/ 19:21

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Sprout

Posted 5/19/ 12:35 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

That looks beautiful, thanks for the reply.

Sprout

Posted 5/19/ 12:40 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Thanks for the replies !

I appreciate all of them. I do see I need to change my column design. I will definitely flare out the bottom and add some kind of rebar for integrity. I will make my column straight at the top but it needs to be bigger than 8" to 10" for my application so at least now I shouldn't mess up too bad. Thanks.

ChrisTN

Posted 5/19/ 12:47 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Thanks for the replies !

Ethridge, TN

Ethridge, TN

Depending on what your mounting is, you can take rebar, bend a 90 on it, then weld it to a steel plate. Pour your holes full of concrete, then force the bar/plate into the top of it. You can then weld brackets where needed to the top of the plate. Allow the concrete to setup good, and just be careful of your heat when welding the brackets. Use this alot when building steel structures.

Ed Boysun

Posted 5/19/ 13:04 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Agent Orange: Friendly fire that keeps on burning.

Agent Orange: Friendly fire that keeps on burning.

I don't know if the windmill is going to be up for a long time, so this might have bearing on how you do it.

25 or 30 years ago, I was involved with a group that erected a 60 foot tall Jacobs windmill tower up on the highest, windiest knob we could locate. We planned to use the tower to support an electrical wind generator and also as an antenna support structure. We hired a guy with a powerline truck, to dig 16" diameter holes to a depth of 8'. The ground we were working on was very sandy from 6' down so we ended up with bell shaped holes. Into these holes, we placed a disk blade of the proper diameter, that had two 3/4" rods running through the blades and extending above ground level. Top 6" of the rods were threaded. We filled all but the top foot of the hole with fist sized rocks and then finished by pouring dry sand on top the rocks, to fill the voids. In the top foot, we then poured concrete and had built 2' square forms that extended out of the ground about 6" and those were poured at the same time the top foot of the holes were poured. The tower was then attached to the protruding rods and we were set to make power and radiate RF. After doing all of the above, someone stumbled on a tower erection manual from the Jacobs Windmill Co..

Turns out, we did it all wrong. Jacobs advised using concrete for the anchor but he wanted the top 6" of the anchor hole to be filled with soil around the tower leg, to act as a vibration dampener and prevent the tower legs from becoming crystallized and failing. Last I looked, the tower is still standing though, so I dunno.

jakescia

Posted 5/19/ 15:02 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: So.....if I am following you correctly...............

Oskaloosa, Iowa

Oskaloosa, Iowa

There are always two forces on the pier............but when dealing with the windmill, the forces trying to draw the pier out of the ground are greater than are likely on a building.

Therefore....

.... using an angle iron from top of hole to bottom, welded to a cross piece in the bottom, would keep the legs etc anchored to the pier.  Weld, say, a flat plate to the top of the angle iron, which can then be used to bolt to for anything above ground.

To keep the pier from being moved about in the hole, like a drawbar pin, and wallowing out the hole so the wind could yank out the pier----------- make the hole bell-shaped so the wind would have to move more mass at the bottom of the hole in order to do its wallowing routine, especially at the top of the hole.

Am I close?

guypatrick

Posted 5/19/ 16:58 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

North central, IA

Gerald - shoot me an if don't mind. I want to talk towers.

loran

Posted 5/19/ 19:27 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

West Union, IOWA FLOLO Farm

If you head over to Denny's...... He's not to far from me....

And your wife probably needs flowers..... To put under said windmill....

I could be available for translation.... *grin* IowabigTee

Posted 5/19/ 20:09 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Loran---I think I missed something ----frown???-------- Denny Sprout

Posted 5/19/ 21:14 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Buying flowers seems to be my occupation nowadays, farming is just my hobby.

rocknroll

Posted 5/20/ 05:29 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

Clark county Illinois

A lot of good advice here.

 

The only thing I might add is for those concrete piers with only a forming bucket on top of a 'posthole', I have seen the bucket 'float' a little bit throwing the accuracy off.

loran

Posted 5/20/ 07:27 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

West Union, IOWA FLOLO Farm

If I rains..... I'll have to meander down one day....


Sprout was over here Friday....

Edited by loran 5/20/ 07:28

Ernie

Posted 5/20/ 09:52 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Advice needed for small concrete job

North End I-15

North End I-15

For more a706 rebarinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

I have a 65' Jacobs 4 leg tower and generator for sale . Generator needs hub and prop. Tower down but not dismantled . Generator in shed , Tail and hardware in good shape. Project I started 30 years ago and never got done . :<(